Stranger in Suwon (archives)

Angry Buddhist Airs my Dirty Laundry

2007-10-24T22:13:00.000-07:00

Today I had lunch with my coworker, Yumi, and got my ear chewed off by my landlady: possibly the angriest 60 year old Buddhist, with red lipstick, I have ever met.

She sometimes comes by unannounced, plops herself cross-legged onto my floor, and rambles passionately, in Korean, almost none of which I understood. I nod, offer her something to drink- and put on a sweater to cover up, flustered, wondering why she is in my apartment for no apparent reason, talking loudly and happily to someone who doesn't understand her.

And then I think all people really want is to be listened to, like people who talk to their dogs.

Outside today she wasn't friendly. She grabbed my arm and showed me a list of building rules scribbled in Hangul. She had torn open my bag of garbage, along with my neighbor's. It was strewn all over the street - orange peels, kleenex, Q-tips (embarassing stuff). She was livid. Koreans walking by stood and stared.

Sounds like I broke one of the 10 garbage day commandments, but I have a feeling it isn't just me. She is currently in another heated debate outside. From my window I can hear a Korean woman screaming right back at her.

Here is some photo art.

Korean nightlife, Suwon

2007-03-09T08:40:00.000-08:00

I've played it safe in Korea. I'm not a big nightlife girl and have yet to dance at a mafia-owned bar in Youngsan-dong, or visit Hongdae on "club day"- where one buys a 10$ pass to a number of clubs so packed you can't push your way to the bathroom.

The nightlife I've experienced is a tame one- certainly a watered down version of the fun I had in Montreal. My Korean nights usually fit the same mould: dinner, then to a bar where I sit at a booth with friends, nursing beer and talking. Norebang is sometimes part of the equation.

There is a darker side of Korea. Some women are here on 'Entertainment Visas', and if they don't work as prostitutes, they're employed at Juicy clubs, where men pay 10 times the regular cost of drinks for the company of attractive women. Suwon's Hotel Castle has a club with martinis (and girls) on the menu.

Last night I wanted live music in Suwon. There's no such thing. Tae Hun was driving and didn't want to brave Seoul traffic to go out in Hongdae, so we started our night off at 'Live Cafe' in Yongin:

I've been consistently disappointed by Western food in Korea, and the pizza Kyle and I shared tasted like a piece of cardboard. I would have preferred a good galbi soup.

The music was a one man band. He played a good Simon and Garfunkel tune, but the Korean ballads made a small impact on me:

We headed back to Suwon and settled at KING Luxury karaoke club, near Ajou University. Most places charge 12-15$ for an hour of karaoke, but this "luxury" establishment cost us an extra 8-. We smuggled in a bottle of wine, and drank as we sang. Is the chandelier worth the hiked-up price? You decide:

Next, we went to the Cass bar near Ajou:

I said it and I'll say it again. Even if you've just had dinner and you go to a bar, you'll be ordering more food. It's a social norm. Just look at our greasy platter of drink house food!

The bar was nothing special. Generally I'd say the nightlife near SUWON STATION is more exciting. The bars are more populated, and although there aren't many foreigners in Suwon, you're more likely to run into them there.

The cherry on top of our night was a smoky P.C. room where we played computer games. It was my first time ever, and I went as a social experiment more than anything. The room was packed with nearly 100 young men, staring at their screens. 'Bad guys' were shot at with with machetes, blood splattered onto the boys' Saturday night. They took breaks to light up a new cigarette or answer a text message.

TOP 10 Things I Miss about Canada

2007-06-14T09:46:00.001-07:00

OH CANADA ...

1. FRESH AIR. A horizon unclouded by a yellow ring. Sundays with family.

2. CELINE DION (Nah)

3. TIM HORTON'S for cheap, freshly brewed coffee & Iced Cappuccinos. (We have a knock-off Tim Hortons in Suwon, but it is a dimly lit bar selling $7 coffee):

4. TOQUES. Brrrave weather, not mild and indecisive. Ice storms. Enough snow to call in sick or build a snowfort. Enough autumn leaves to build a house.

5. HOLIDAYS. Because what self respecting adult doesn't want to root through a stocking or dress up as Brian Mulroney?

6. ROAD TRIPS. Spontaneous summer trips with best friends, beavers, salmon and grizzly bears (threw that in to educate you non-Canadians.)

7. MONTREAL. The melting pot of ethnicities with a Liberal mindframe. Can you blame me? Check out what the mountain looks like on Sundays:

8. Throwing HOUSE PARTIES. Small apartments force Koreans to party at a club or bar.

9. Chatting with my NANA online is great, but I'd rather we share cookies and tea over a game of Scrabble.

10. FRIENDS & FAMILY... who (shocker) speak pretty good English:

Special nods to cheap meat, fruit and vegetables, maple syrup, LEONARD COHEN (who I met in person), BACKYARDS (which I always took for granted), TREVOR FERGUSON (a great Canadian author, and my former professor), my Father's sense of humor, My Mother's ART and cooking, Mark's thoughtful and intelligent responses, Canada Dry Gingerale, Sarah Polly (an awesome Canadian actress), poutine, loons, Jim Carrey, and CBC. Eh?

Oooh Fancy Fancy Fancy!

2007-06-24T06:20:00.001-07:00

I was treated like a princess tonight!

On the excruciatingly long plane ride from Canada to Korea, I sat beside a Korean man who lived in Calgary for 9 months. He is in pharmaceuticals with aspirations to be a politician;

he's so driven and successful that he's a bit intimidating,

but he's also playful in his own way.

There was some e-mail miscommunication but we finally got into contact and met tonight for the first time since we choked down plane food and watched 'The Notebook', high above the sea. His childhood story is facinating. He met his parents and younger brother for the first time at age 7. I'll tell you the story, in depth, sometime.

Anyway, here are some photos from our night. He picked me up in his car and gave me a traditional pouch that brings good luck. A luxury seafood restaurant awaited us, and afterwards we watched dancers in the park near the Suwon Arts Center:

A Saturday in Suwon

2007-07-20T08:27:00.000-07:00

TRADITIONAL FOLK VILLAGE:

These "breathable" clay pots store dwen-jang and kimchi:

fermented bean paste and cabbage.

The old heating system unique to Korea. Even today, the floor is the primary heat source -

by means of hot water pipes.

This man was selling traditional honey candies from his trunk.

A family fishing with nets.

This is why they call it a "living museum." A Chosun Dynasty pottery mill recreated.

My students enjoying cold Ginseng tea. Koreans drink cold tea in the summer, and hot in the winter. Mine is persimmon tea, it tasted a bit like apple cider with cinnamon. I fought tooth and nail with my student about paying for my own, but he insisted, "it's my pleasure."

We shared a big pot of mushroom, beef and seafood soup. My students asked me to explain the sayings, "it could be better," and, "it couldn't be better," in relation to the food. I was so hungry from walking around that I said, "it couldn't be better."

Enjoying the view with a student. He told me there that when he and his wife got married, they went horseback riding on Jeju Island. I told him about my frightening ride down a mountain in Venezuela.

To SOULMATE bar, near Ajou University:

I was good friends with this guy, Young, when I first arrived in Korea. He, Min and I hung out a lot, but he went away for work. Well surprise surprise, he got an engineering job at Samsung company in Suwon, and called me up to go for a drink. Since when do I have "old" friends in Korea? I've been here for awhile now.

Drink house food- A platter of fruit for 10USD. Beer and watermelon anyone? Help yourself.

ASK EVA (and she will ask someone else...)

2007-07-24T06:19:00.000-07:00

F.Y.I. I added a new foreigner in Suwon to the blogger list! http://meverden.blogspot.com/

1. Interested in finding the red light district in Suwon? I am- but not for the reason you might think! give me a little credit. I want to take some great PHOTOS! A fellow Suwonite (Suwonite?) sent me these directions:

"Ahhh, the red light district. Do you know where the Paris Baguette is just outside of the station? My sense of direction is terrible so I'll describe it like this. As you are facing the Paris Baguette walk to the left and follow the main road. There will be several sides streets you pass. It is a block or two before you reach an overpass. It's about 3-4 blocks, I think, from the Station. I've just been there twice. Once by mistake and I took my husband to see it. It was a Sunday when I went with him and they weren't quite open for business. There was lines of really seedy looking men waiting. Yuck! When I went on a weekday, it was the only street with no one on it. The windows are all curtained so you can't mistake where you are and the girls were sitting on chairs in the entryway. If you have trouble finding it, maybe I could meet you at the station and take you. I think I would avoid Sunday. I wonder what it's like at night? I'm sorry my description is so poor, it is easy to just walk it then tell somehow how to get there. I'm so mixed up on my directions but I think it is north of the station."

2. "Dear Eva,

*This relationship-based question has been deleted by request.

Saturday Night Korean Style

2007-09-02T07:33:00.000-07:00

I've been at the hagwon for 10 months now and they FINALLY recruited another foreign girl! Look how happy I am to have Stephanie in the picture! She's from Manchester, she has big blue eyes and an adorable accent. I taught her some lessons last night.

Lesson 1: Stephanie, we do not drink our soju like "this."

Lesson 2: No night is complete without norebang. Choose God-awful English music (like Westlife) and you'll be well liked by your Korean company.

Lesson 3: With your drink, order a big cheese and corn platter or spicy seafood soup. Yes, this is a bar. We know you've just had dinner.

Lesson 4: Disco balls are not tacky. Please don't suggest it.

Lesson 5: You mustn't mingle with the other tables. Stay at your respective seat. Talk with the friends you came with.

Visiting a Korean Heater-Factory, or something like that.

2007-09-16T09:46:00.000-07:00

PS - My George M. Cohen review is up.

(Above) Waiting outside my apartment in the drizzling rain. Hero had to drop his parents off in another city, an hour away. His Mother was a sweet woman. We ate kimbap in the backseat, and tried our best to communicate. When we arrived, his Dad insisted I tour their factory:

The finished products:

After being served grapes on one of the display beds, Hero and I said goodbye to his parents and set back to Suwon for dinner, a walk, norebang, and a dose of second hand smoke:

Move star? Singer? Member of the Korean Mafia? Oh, all of the above. O.K.

Arriving at South Gate, Suwon:

Hwaseong Fortress provides nice views of the cityscape.

Hero had an incredible voice (Korean and English ballads, pop songs to rap), but lately kareoke just gives me a headache.

... Goodnight.

Seoul vs. Daegu - Pro Basketball in Seoul

2007-10-28T07:51:00.001-07:00

(I will post in a couple of days but things are crazy now. Tomorrow is my last day of teaching. I have to clean, go to the pension office, have a goodbye lunch with my boss, prepare for the Halloween party, write goodye letters, teach 6 classes and finish packing! Load a year's worth of stuff into a taxi.)

One of my highschool classes came to visit me today even though they're finished at the school. Sam, Bread, Sony and Tom, thank you so much! You guys are awesome and I will miss you.

Park near exit 7, Sadang station. I told Min I snapped pictures of the pigeons as I waited for him, and he said they are dirty garbage-eaters, and Koreans much prefer squirrels.

Fall is my favorite season and the crisp air is making me happy. Summer in Korea was so humid that I sometimes didn't want to move.

The Sunday game between Seoul (white) and Daegu (red) was the first pro basketball game I've been to. We cheered on Daegu: Min's home town. I was hyper, and got into it more than I thought I would, off my seat hollering. The teams were neck and neck in the last quarter. We lost.

The players were a rainbow of Nationalities. I couldn't get over the height of some of the guys. But the cheerleaders were all Korean girls (as far as I could tell). I was impressed by their costume changes; everytime they did a number they were dressed in something new. Min said they aren't paid very well.

Once again, there was no staple stadium food like hot dogs. People snaked on instant soup, fish skin and bags of potato chips. And the food was cheap (say 1$ for a can of Pepsi.) Korea is good not to rack up the prices in tourist spots like amusement parks or stadiums. Also, the tickets were only 8,000W!

I really liked the Japanese girl pictured below. I met her for the first time on Sunday. She was outspoken with a wild laugh. I sat at the end of the table like the 5th wheel (2 couples and me) but I didn't mind. We played truth or dare, well... mostly truth, and it was hysterical.

The Korean guy (Min's friend) needed comic relief, because he was robbed on Saturday. He rooms with a family, and his computer was stolen from his bedroom.

He ended up confessing a "coming of age" experience in a traditional Korean sauna. He joined his Mom at the age of 10, saw nude ajummas (older Korean women) and felt his first pangs of desire.

Itaewon, Seoul: Rainbow of Colors

2007-11-07T00:27:00.001-08:00

A shop, a fly, and a man near my hotel in Gangnam.

***

Now on to Itaewon!

I was never fond of Itaewon, but decided it deserved one last shot - like a bad first date. I went searching for its beauty, down narrow streets and alleyways, and didn't have to walk far before I was charmed by all that juicy color. Check out these photos! Thanks, Western Town.

Something strange happened though. I was taking shots of a restaurant in broad daylight when a drunken, teary-eyed man came running up to me and shoved me with all of his might. I somehow managed to stumble and not fall over completely, but I was frozen with fear. He had so much hate in his eyes.

A Korean gentleman in a suit ran to my rescue and grabbed him seconds after he charged at me. A bunch of people walked up to see if I was okay. Really strange. The attacker was crying and staring at me as I collected myself and walked away.

Chuseok in the eyes of Young Koreans

2007-09-19T03:55:00.000-07:00

"One of the major foods prepared and eaten during the Chuseok holiday is Songpyeon (송편), a crescent-shaped rice cake which is steamed upon pine needles." - Wikipedia.

What's going on in Seoul during the holidays? Click here! (shamleless promotion of the Seoul Government site.)

Yes, my bites always come out heart-shaped. Happy Chuseok (Thanksgiving) to us! The staff got 5 KG boxes of apples today. I felt crazy lugging home 10 pounds of fruit. What am I going to do with it all? I have no oven here, just a stove-top. I suppose I could make homemade apple sauce.

This was better than our New Years gift shocker: a crate of SPAM, considered a joke by some, but a luxury in Korea. I re-gifted it pretty quickly.

Hanbok for sale in a shop window, South Gate Suwon. Just to get the festivities going.

PS- Tae Hun's wedding photos from Saturday night. It was pretty Westernized- steak dinner, white wedding dress. There were huge screens on the wall, showing up-close video footage of the couple: Tae's best friend's sister and her fiancee. The guy was displeased his younger sibling was marrying before him. I told Tae Hun that Canadians aren't eager to rush into marriage. I'm allowed the odd generalization.

Without further ado, the Wedding photos:

Have you been to a Korean wedding? What did you think?

Plus, For Jack. HAHA!

LAST POST

2007-11-24T13:06:00.000-08:00

Hello y'all. I will be making a blog called http://www.photomontreal.blogspot.com/ but until January 9th I'm limited to dial up internet and it's impossible to do much of anything online. Also life's a little crazy right now. Cheers! Happy new year!

White men in Hong Kong

Airport Breakfast

Frosty Flight to L.A.

Holy Hong Kong

2007-11-17T01:50:00.000-08:00

Bye Bye Korea

2007-11-16T08:52:00.000-08:00

Bye Bye Korea

***

Hong Kong

Hong Kong Your Way

2007-11-18T07:26:00.001-08:00

Open Air Restaurant

Justin's friend Ingrid

My Shoes

Grocery Order

Green Guest Bedroom

Night out in Central

Photos from my last few days in Korea

2007-11-10T18:35:00.000-08:00

I'm seeing lots of friends over the next couple of days, so expect tons of photos! This is sad.

My Hotel in Gangnam, Seoul + killer views

2007-11-03T02:04:00.000-07:00

Suwon Station: Market

2007-10-27T05:47:00.000-07:00

Tonight I went to a DVD bang near Ajou and watched Before Sunset, but first took a bus to Suwon Station to walk around the traditional market. I also found myself in the red light district but, after getting couple of cat calls, left. One Korean man yelled, "fantastic," at me, nudging his friend as they smoked outside. I didn't see any prostitutes but I did see "love" hotels and motels with buzzing neon signs, pictures of Russian girls, and sketchy movie houses.

In the traditional market, this woman (below) saw me taking photos of three Korean girls. She asked where I was from, and invited me to her Vietnamese restaurant for a cup of coffee. She spoke fluent Korean but only a few English words. She wanted to see her son talk English, but he was totally uninterested. He rolled around the floor, and picked stones out of the soles of his shoes - did everything but say, "hi" in English. Poor bugger. It was his day off school. He was slightly friendlier when I showed interest in his Transformer toy.

Where I'm going in Hong Kong

2007-10-25T06:11:00.000-07:00

My friend Justin teaches kindgergarden kids M-F, so I'll be sure to drop by and play duck duck goose, once in a while! View outside his apartment:

Justin and one of his sisters. His other sister lives on the floor above him.

Payphone with my Mother

2007-10-24T04:00:00.000-07:00

"Mom, I have a secret. I'm doing something a little... shocking before I leave Korea."

"What?"

"I don't want to say."

"Eva you have to tell me or I won't get to sleep tonight! Is it a good thing?"

"Not exactly."

"Is it a bad thing?"

"I don't think so. Listen Mom you might not even care."

"Probably not, so just tell me."

"I don't want people knowing yet."

"You won the lottery. You're not going back to University. You're pregnant. You're staying to work in Korea. You're in love, you're bringing somebody home?"

"(laugh) no."

"You're adopting a child."

"Are you serious Mom!?"

"You're gay. You're going to be on TV!"

"God. No Mom!"

****

PS - Visit the 2 new blogs on my bloglist! http://janinemaclean.blogspot.com/ and http://global-encounters.blogspot.com/. Aren't you curious?

PS- This picture makes my mouth water. Honey candy is, in my opinion, the most delicious Korean treat. It's 5 dollars for a small box, and usually made fresh from vendors at a booth. I like the peanut version best, made with honey and flour spun into thin threads.

7 days left in my apartment...

2007-10-23T08:00:00.000-07:00

Time, where does she go?

Catholic Wedding, Seoul

2007-10-22T07:16:00.000-07:00

Before Tae Hun met me on Sunday, he attended a Catholic wedding near City Hall, Seoul, and took some gorgeous pictures! I had to share them with you. Don't overdose on the cute. He has had a long line of friends' weddings to attend this summer, and fall.

Sorry to drop the pristine cake but Tae Hun is always like, "darn another one." Koreans give money as a wedding gift, and the bride and groom forever remember the exact dollar amount from each guest. In most cases, close friends and family members will shell out $500 USD or more.

Pampas Grass Festival, Seoul

2007-10-21T09:37:00.000-07:00

Moi, using the tripod Tae Hun bought me

World Cup Stadium

Pow Pow, Tripods & the Korean Spirit

2007-10-15T07:32:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was the last day of the Suwon festival, so Tae Hun and I went for a walk up Paldal Mountain (the West side of Hwaseong Fortress). We caught the tail end of the fireworks, pretended to ring the massive bell, pour hot water, throw stones and shoot bow and arrows to ward off the invaders. Pow pow! I felt like a kid. My cheeks were rosy from the cold.

We also had a nice talk. I said I came to Korea to experience culture other than what Mark calls, "tv culture." There is a strange dynamic in Korea because it has a long, rich history, and yet it's only starting to attract modern hobbies and culture. Koreans are influenced by tradition, yet their lives are so hectic with work that many spend off-time staring numbly into a computer, TV, or cell phone.

In a note, Tae Hun wrote, "Buddhism states when you meet once, you will meet again." He hopes to one day visit Canada, but admitted he can't imagine having the time.

When travellers leave Korea for other parts of Asia, they often say they miss the spirit of the Korean people, the unity, the warmth and generosity, the sense of safety.

Tae Hun and I discussed the land mass to population ratio in Canada/Korea, and I realized I've become acustomed to living ontop of my neighbors, being able to step out my door at 2am knowing the streets will be lit, and lively.

***

I had the flu (or something like it) yesterday, and our trip to Dunkin Donuts for hot chocolate over camera-talk wasn't the best idea. I felt sick again. But smiled because Tae Hun got me a present. He pulled a remote control and a tripod out of an oblong box.

He says my night photos are terrible. They are; I haven't had much practice yet. I was proud of the kit-deal I got at Yes camera shop in Namdemoon, but they didn't give me a UV filter (I bought my own), nor did they hand over a tripod, or a remote.

What a fun toy! My camera died during "instruction time," but I'm on my way to taking good night shots. Do you like taking photos at night? Do you have any advice?

PS: Cool pics of Suwon Fortress that I found on FLICKR:

October Schoolday in Korea

2007-10-17T06:26:00.000-07:00

They were so good today. I tried out a new technique. I used a slow voice (like a lobotomized history professor) and it worked like a charm. Usually they're on a sugar high.. note the devil chugging a can of pop. The voice put them to sleep.

The photo on my desk has recieved numerous queeries. They want to know if the men are a.) my friends, b.) my father(s), c.) my boyfriend(s).

When people order food to go at Korean restaurants, it's wrapped in half a roll of plastic.

View from my classroom window.

There's nothing better than children's art. I want a house full of it!

A roll of kimbap cut up for a hungry customer

2 seconds later they broke into a Chigago dance number (may have been a daydream)