Travel Blog

Next trips: NY & Edmonton, Alberta!

2010-08-11T12:42:00.000-07:00

(In Aug. & Sept.)

San Francisco, California

2010-08-07T20:09:00.000-07:00

Photo by J.D.K.M.

Last Asia post!

2007-11-24T13:06:00.000-08:00

White men in Hong Kong

Airport Breakfast

Frosty Flight to L.A.

Hong Kong Your Way

2007-11-18T07:26:00.001-08:00

Open Air Restaurant

Justin's friend Ingrid

My Shoes

Grocery Order

Green Guest Bedroom

Night out in Central

Holy Hong Kong

2007-11-17T01:50:00.000-08:00

Bye Bye Korea

2007-11-16T08:52:00.000-08:00

Bye Bye Korea

***

Hong Kong

Photos from my last few days in Korea

2007-11-10T18:35:00.000-08:00

I'm seeing lots of friends over the next couple of days, so expect tons of photos! This is sad.

Itaewon, Seoul: Rainbow of Colors

2007-11-07T00:27:00.001-08:00

A shop, a fly, and a man near my hotel in Gangnam.

***

Now on to Itaewon!

I was never fond of Itaewon, but decided it deserved one last shot - like a bad first date. I went searching for its beauty, down narrow streets and alleyways, and didn't have to walk far before I was charmed by all that juicy color. Check out these photos! Thanks, Western Town.

Something strange happened though. I was taking shots of a restaurant in broad daylight when a drunken, teary-eyed man came running up to me and shoved me with all of his might. I somehow managed to stumble and not fall over completely, but I was frozen with fear. He had so much hate in his eyes.

A Korean gentleman in a suit ran to my rescue and grabbed him seconds after he charged at me. A bunch of people walked up to see if I was okay. Really strange. The attacker was crying and staring at me as I collected myself and walked away.

My Hotel in Gangnam, Seoul + killer views

2007-11-03T02:04:00.000-07:00

Seoul vs. Daegu - Pro Basketball in Seoul

2007-10-28T07:51:00.001-07:00

(I will post in a couple of days but things are crazy now. Tomorrow is my last day of teaching. I have to clean, go to the pension office, have a goodbye lunch with my boss, prepare for the Halloween party, write goodye letters, teach 6 classes and finish packing! Load a year's worth of stuff into a taxi.)

One of my highschool classes came to visit me today even though they're finished at the school. Sam, Bread, Sony and Tom, thank you so much! You guys are awesome and I will miss you.

Park near exit 7, Sadang station. I told Min I snapped pictures of the pigeons as I waited for him, and he said they are dirty garbage-eaters, and Koreans much prefer squirrels.

Fall is my favorite season and the crisp air is making me happy. Summer in Korea was so humid that I sometimes didn't want to move.

The Sunday game between Seoul (white) and Daegu (red) was the first pro basketball game I've been to. We cheered on Daegu: Min's home town. I was hyper, and got into it more than I thought I would, off my seat hollering. The teams were neck and neck in the last quarter. We lost.

The players were a rainbow of Nationalities. I couldn't get over the height of some of the guys. But the cheerleaders were all Korean girls (as far as I could tell). I was impressed by their costume changes; everytime they did a number they were dressed in something new. Min said they aren't paid very well.

Once again, there was no staple stadium food like hot dogs. People snaked on instant soup, fish skin and bags of potato chips. And the food was cheap (say 1$ for a can of Pepsi.) Korea is good not to rack up the prices in tourist spots like amusement parks or stadiums. Also, the tickets were only 8,000W!

I really liked the Japanese girl pictured below. I met her for the first time on Sunday. She was outspoken with a wild laugh. I sat at the end of the table like the 5th wheel (2 couples and me) but I didn't mind. We played truth or dare, well... mostly truth, and it was hysterical.

The Korean guy (Min's friend) needed comic relief, because he was robbed on Saturday. He rooms with a family, and his computer was stolen from his bedroom.

He ended up confessing a "coming of age" experience in a traditional Korean sauna. He joined his Mom at the age of 10, saw nude ajummas (older Korean women) and felt his first pangs of desire.

Suwon Station: Market

2007-10-27T05:47:00.000-07:00

Tonight I went to a DVD bang near Ajou and watched Before Sunset, but first took a bus to Suwon Station to walk around the traditional market. I also found myself in the red light district but, after getting couple of cat calls, left. One Korean man yelled, "fantastic," at me, nudging his friend as they smoked outside. I didn't see any prostitutes but I did see "love" hotels and motels with buzzing neon signs, pictures of Russian girls, and sketchy movie houses.

In the traditional market, this woman (below) saw me taking photos of three Korean girls. She asked where I was from, and invited me to her Vietnamese restaurant for a cup of coffee. She spoke fluent Korean but only a few English words. She wanted to see her son talk English, but he was totally uninterested. He rolled around the floor, and picked stones out of the soles of his shoes - did everything but say, "hi" in English. Poor bugger. It was his day off school. He was slightly friendlier when I showed interest in his Transformer toy.

Where I'm going in Hong Kong

2007-10-25T06:11:00.000-07:00

My friend Justin teaches kindgergarden kids M-F, so I'll be sure to drop by and play duck duck goose, once in a while! View outside his apartment:

Justin and one of his sisters. His other sister lives on the floor above him.

Angry Buddhist Airs my Dirty Laundry

2007-10-24T22:13:00.000-07:00

Today I had lunch with my coworker, Yumi, and got my ear chewed off by my landlady: possibly the angriest 60 year old Buddhist, with red lipstick, I have ever met.

She sometimes comes by unannounced, plops herself cross-legged onto my floor, and rambles passionately, in Korean, almost none of which I understood. I nod, offer her something to drink- and put on a sweater to cover up, flustered, wondering why she is in my apartment for no apparent reason, talking loudly and happily to someone who doesn't understand her.

And then I think all people really want is to be listened to, like people who talk to their dogs.

Outside today she wasn't friendly. She grabbed my arm and showed me a list of building rules scribbled in Hangul. She had torn open my bag of garbage, along with my neighbor's. It was strewn all over the street - orange peels, kleenex, Q-tips (embarassing stuff). She was livid. Koreans walking by stood and stared.

Sounds like I broke one of the 10 garbage day commandments, but I have a feeling it isn't just me. She is currently in another heated debate outside. From my window I can hear a Korean woman screaming right back at her.

Here is some photo art.

Payphone with my Mother

2007-10-24T04:00:00.000-07:00

"Mom, I have a secret. I'm doing something a little... shocking before I leave Korea."

"What?"

"I don't want to say."

"Eva you have to tell me or I won't get to sleep tonight! Is it a good thing?"

"Not exactly."

"Is it a bad thing?"

"I don't think so. Listen Mom you might not even care."

"Probably not, so just tell me."

"I don't want people knowing yet."

"You won the lottery. You're not going back to University. You're pregnant. You're staying to work in Korea. You're in love, you're bringing somebody home?"

"(laugh) no."

"You're adopting a child."

"Are you serious Mom!?"

"You're gay. You're going to be on TV!"

"God. No Mom!"

****

PS - Visit the 2 new blogs on my bloglist! http://janinemaclean.blogspot.com/ and http://global-encounters.blogspot.com/. Aren't you curious?

PS- This picture makes my mouth water. Honey candy is, in my opinion, the most delicious Korean treat. It's 5 dollars for a small box, and usually made fresh from vendors at a booth. I like the peanut version best, made with honey and flour spun into thin threads.

7 days left in my apartment...

2007-10-23T08:00:00.000-07:00

Time, where does she go?

Catholic Wedding, Seoul

2007-10-22T07:16:00.000-07:00

Before Tae Hun met me on Sunday, he attended a Catholic wedding near City Hall, Seoul, and took some gorgeous pictures! I had to share them with you. Don't overdose on the cute. He has had a long line of friends' weddings to attend this summer, and fall.

Sorry to drop the pristine cake but Tae Hun is always like, "darn another one." Koreans give money as a wedding gift, and the bride and groom forever remember the exact dollar amount from each guest. In most cases, close friends and family members will shell out $500 USD or more.

Pampas Grass Festival, Seoul

2007-10-21T09:37:00.000-07:00

Moi, using the tripod Tae Hun bought me

World Cup Stadium

October Schoolday in Korea

2007-10-17T06:26:00.000-07:00

They were so good today. I tried out a new technique. I used a slow voice (like a lobotomized history professor) and it worked like a charm. Usually they're on a sugar high.. note the devil chugging a can of pop. The voice put them to sleep.

The photo on my desk has recieved numerous queeries. They want to know if the men are a.) my friends, b.) my father(s), c.) my boyfriend(s).

When people order food to go at Korean restaurants, it's wrapped in half a roll of plastic.

View from my classroom window.

There's nothing better than children's art. I want a house full of it!

A roll of kimbap cut up for a hungry customer

2 seconds later they broke into a Chigago dance number (may have been a daydream)

Pow Pow, Tripods & the Korean Spirit

2007-10-15T07:32:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was the last day of the Suwon festival, so Tae Hun and I went for a walk up Paldal Mountain (the West side of Hwaseong Fortress). We caught the tail end of the fireworks, pretended to ring the massive bell, pour hot water, throw stones and shoot bow and arrows to ward off the invaders. Pow pow! I felt like a kid. My cheeks were rosy from the cold.

We also had a nice talk. I said I came to Korea to experience culture other than what Mark calls, "tv culture." There is a strange dynamic in Korea because it has a long, rich history, and yet it's only starting to attract modern hobbies and culture. Koreans are influenced by tradition, yet their lives are so hectic with work that many spend off-time staring numbly into a computer, TV, or cell phone.

In a note, Tae Hun wrote, "Buddhism states when you meet once, you will meet again." He hopes to one day visit Canada, but admitted he can't imagine having the time.

When travellers leave Korea for other parts of Asia, they often say they miss the spirit of the Korean people, the unity, the warmth and generosity, the sense of safety.

Tae Hun and I discussed the land mass to population ratio in Canada/Korea, and I realized I've become acustomed to living ontop of my neighbors, being able to step out my door at 2am knowing the streets will be lit, and lively.

***

I had the flu (or something like it) yesterday, and our trip to Dunkin Donuts for hot chocolate over camera-talk wasn't the best idea. I felt sick again. But smiled because Tae Hun got me a present. He pulled a remote control and a tripod out of an oblong box.

He says my night photos are terrible. They are; I haven't had much practice yet. I was proud of the kit-deal I got at Yes camera shop in Namdemoon, but they didn't give me a UV filter (I bought my own), nor did they hand over a tripod, or a remote.

What a fun toy! My camera died during "instruction time," but I'm on my way to taking good night shots. Do you like taking photos at night? Do you have any advice?

PS: Cool pics of Suwon Fortress that I found on FLICKR:

Am I in Korea or Montreal?

2007-10-15T04:00:00.000-07:00

Below are a mix of me in Korea, and hilarious photos Josh e-mailed me of his apartment in Montreal. I take back everything I said about it being a bachelor's pad. I don't know what it is, but I can.. picture myself there!

Wow, my student Anny will be shocked when I tell her she's been to Canada!

(Care to insert a witty caption under this photo?)

Lovely little ones.

2007-10-12T11:07:00.000-07:00

I am writing this because my middle of the night glass of green tea was a bad idea! I can't get back to sleep.

I love you because you are the "Juice Monster." You bring sticky bottles of sugar water to class everyday, and pour some into the cap to share with your classmates, maintaining your popularity. We have history, and I've been lucky enough to watch you grow up over the year- and develop your English. I love you because you rest your head against my arm during storytime. I know you're sensitive even though you put on an act in front of the other boys. And you never cease to stump me with the most clever hide and seek spots.

I didn't have a little sister until I met you. More than teacher and student, we are friends. I will miss treating you to ice cream, the pride I've felt strolling down the street with my little ballerina, a bright spot in everyone's day. I'm sorry I was too clumsy to master your dance moves. I hope you are always playful and quick to laugh.

You have served as an inspiration to me. You've come through hardships stronger than any adult I know, totally unconcerned with public perception. You say the most poignant things when I least expect it and you look at me like you see right through.

What is this, 1920?

2007-10-11T15:31:00.000-07:00

Debate in my class yesterday. 16 year old boys.

What I asked them to argue-
Team 1: Women are not good candidates for the military service.
Team 2: Women are good candidates for the military service.

TEAM 2's Arguments -
Women can provide services like cooking for the soldiers, and perform first aid.
Women can distract the enemy with their beauty.
Equipment is lighter nowadays.
Women can use their intelligence to think tactically.

TEAM 1's Arguments-
Women are physically weaker than men.
Women are overly emotional.
Women might get raped or abused.
My favorite: Women have the ethical duty to bear children.

PS-

(What they were doing before class?)

Archives time!

2007-10-10T08:07:00.000-07:00

HONG KONG

Oh man Hong Kong is gorgeous! I can't wait to inhale the fishy air and take photos. I'll be there for nearly a month. The friend I'm staying with lives an adventurous lifestyle, so expect beautiful photos and curious posts.

Since my year is coming to an end and I haven't yet had time to sum it up (I have some "interview-style" posts I want to type, etc.) I thought I'd refer you to my "all time favorite" posts. Or... the entertaining ones, anyway.

HOW TO PEE in Korea

****** English KEY PHRASES Koreans learn. So funny!

SUPERFICIALITY in Korea at its worst! Sunny (a Korean guy) talks about how his friend has oily skin and never changes his hat. Deplorable really. Check it out. PS- my voice isn't that annoying in real life.

"I won't touch your privacy." (My Korean company had learned that Canadian girls are independant.)

Do Asians think all blonds look identical?

Trip to Gangwon Province with Tae Hun's family

LUNAR NEW YEARS and DINNER in Korean homes.

E-mail from my first Korean friend, Chung Lim Jang.

Korean GOSSIP, social stories.

Ear Wax in Korea

The KINDNESS OF KOREANS (or my own desperation.) Fed for nothing at a restaurant.

Playing "Headbandz" with my students

Wandering in the traditional Korean Markets

Stay safe in Korea, for the women in the house

Dying Tae Hun's hair

.... I will add more later !! Now I must sleep.

Cheap restaurant in South Gate, Seoul, often used as a backdrop in Korean films

PS - Tae hun wants you all to tell him he's beautiful one last time.

Seoul <3

2007-10-08T07:42:00.000-07:00

I've been busy. I will post tonight. I only have a few more weeks left in Korea, so some things need to be said before I go.

Gangnam, Seoul

2007-10-03T09:34:00.000-07:00

Let's start with dessert first! Hwan, Min and I had a vanilla treat at Red Mango (a Korean frozen yogurt chain) in Gangnam. I have an interesting story about our internet experience, there!

We ordered Western-style food (pasta, nachos and chicken) but ate it communally, with the plates in the center of the table. This is one example of assimilation. Back home I was pretty squeemish about food-sharing.

We dined at "Captain Hook" restaurant in Gangnam, and later went to a Japanese oddang bar where we drank yogurt flavored soju, and shared oddang soup. Hwan (my old roommate) said he'd like to open an oddang bar in Montreal, Canada. I think it would go over well!

I've been going out a lot lately because I only have 4 weeks of teaching left and am trying to see friends as often as possible before I jet off to Hong Kong and Europe, in mid November.

Hiroko (Japanese) and Min (Korean.) I asked them to kiss for a photo tonight but Min said, "maybe in Japan! In Korea we can't kiss in public!" The younger generation is actually very affectionate . You often see teenagers hugging on the street, but Min is a pinch traditional.

Weekend Photos/ October in Seoul

2007-09-30T15:23:00.000-07:00

I often write event listings for Visitseoul.net. Why not share with you? Here are my write-ups for October in Seoul:

THEATER

The Donkey show is a hoot! It is a disco version of a Midsummer Night’s Dream, in Korean. It is being staged in the round at a theater in North Seoul , garnering attention as a musical with a twist. The feeling is that of being in a club. Audience participation is highly encouraged. Dance, sing and act along! Grab some friends and head out for a night at the theater you won’t soon forget. Admission is 40000W. To inquire, call 02-3443-6487 or visit http://www.donkeyshow.co.kr/ The theater can be reached via Hyewha Subway Station, line 4, exit 2.

The Batsheva Dance Company is back again, this time with ‘Deca Dance,’ the impeccably choreographed routine often described as, “daring and provocative,” and, “Three,” an exciting addition to the show. Seoulites were impressed by the company when they performed here in 2002. Batsheva is now in its 40th year of production, and the contemporary dance troop continues to tantalize audiences worldwide.
Admission is W 30000, W 50000 and W 70000.
For more information call 02-2005-0114 or visit http://www.lgart.com/
LG Arts Center is accessible from Yeoksam Station, line 2, exit 7.

The LG Arts Center is thrilled to present, Twelfth Night, a Shakespearean classic directed by the influential Declan Donnellan. His Moscow theater company is staging the work in Russian with Korean subtitles. The window is small, so book tickets now. It only runs from October 31st until November 3rd, and is bound to be popular.
Tickets range from W 30000 to W 60000 for
For information, visit lgart.com or call 02-2005-0114. LG Arts Center is accessible from Yeoksam Station, line 2, exit 7.

‘Burn the Floor 2’ is the sequel to, ‘Burn the Floor,’ an explosively popular dance show staged at the Olympic Hall, Seoul , in 2006. The production was inspired by Sir Elton John’s opulent birthday party at the Hammersmith Ballroom in 1997, and is raw with energy, showcasing a pallet of dance like waltz, chacha, salsa and tango. It is a full on visual spectacle, boasts champion dancers, and will set your pulse racing.
Admission W 40000 to W 80000, VIP W 100000 and W 150000.
For more information call 02-548-4480 or visit www.seoularts.com
The performance is staged at the Sejong Center, which can be accessed by taking the subway to Gwanghwamun Station, line 1, exit 1 or 8.

ART EXHIBITIONS

DoART Seoul presents Channel 1, a new multimedia exhibit at the single-channel, high-tech multimedia artwork company now located in the affluent Apgujeong area, near Rodeo Drive . The art is a legacy for the legendary Nam-june Paik. Artists showcasing their works include Susie J. Lee, Lee Jin-june, Shin Gi-un, Park June-beom, So-yoon and Ryu Ho-yeol. For further details, visit http://www.doart.co.kr/ or call 02-738-2522.
The gallery is located across the street from Cheongdam High School.

“Nostalgia kills.” “Sweet side.” “Half bucket of blood.” These are the names of some of the pieces Todd Norsten is showcasing at Arario Seoul gallery, until October 7th. His art is simplistic and childlike, humorous with an edgy undertone. The solo exhibition displays imaginative works, “with a drawing-like hand.” Red and black paint drip smiles and eyes on the white of the canvas. Anguk Station, line 3, exit 1. For information about the event call 02-7236190 or visit http://www.ararioseoul.com/

TRADITIONAL KOREAN EVENTS

Have you ever wondered what a Joseon-era wedding was like? Twice a year, at Unhyeongung Palace , the Seoul Metropolitan Government hosts a re-enactment of King Gojong and Queen Min’s wedding. The ceremony is historically accurate, arranged in accordance with the research department at the palace. The King and Queen were married on March 21st, 1866, at the age of fourteen. The event is an opportunity to experience the majesty and grace of Korean royal culture.
For more information on this historical event please call the palace direct at 02-766-9090.
The palace is on line 3, Anguk Station, exit 4.

SPECIAL EVENTS

Armin Van Buuren, The 3rd best DJ worldwide, as selected by the DJ list magazine, is gracing Seoul with his presence this weekend! The Kayagum Hall, Sheraton Grande Walkerhill Hotel will no doubt be filled to capacity on Saturday, October 6th, 11pm - 6am. Favorites of international clubbers like ‘The Sound of Goodbye,’ ‘Eternity’ and ‘Shivers’ will bring the house down. The world class DJ is elusive, so book your tickets in advance if you want to feel the vibrations this Saturday.
Admission is W 50000 and clubbers should contact http://www.o2pro.com/ for purchasing. Barring a prior sell out, tickets will be available at the door.
To access the venue, take line 5 to Gwangnaru, exit 2. You will need to take a direct shuttle bus or taxi upon exiting, as the hall is 2km from the station.

+++

Hi, Tae Hun.

"Stylish" photo houses are popular in Japan, so Hiroko and I checked one out in Gangnam. It was 5,000 W for a sheet of photos - much more expensive than it is in sushi land. She said in Japan, friends write things on the photos like "shopping, boat ride, movies," as a reminder of the night.

This guy had been waiting his whole life to be photographed. As soon as I put my camera up to my face, he struck a killer pose... and held it.

Tae Hun and Hiroko talking about Japanese animation. Is there Japanese animation directed by Woody Allen? No? I don't know then.

In Korea privacy and quietude are embraced. I poked my head in the door of Tin Pan (Hongdae) and said, "oh, it's dead," just as Min piped, "great, we have the bar to ourselves!" Norebang and DVD bangs? Privacy. So there we were, the 4 of us, alone with our small talk and whisky.

We ate sausage, sweet potatoes, noodles, egg, peaches, rice and cabbage salad with our beer, at a Korean-style bar before Tin Pan. Could the selection get any more random?

On the bus ride home, Tae Hun and I drew each others portraits without looking at the paper. I laughed so hard when I saw my drawing of him.

Korean Quotes as of late!

2007-09-28T06:42:00.000-07:00

"hey sweetie.
did you just slept 2 hrs?
you must be more tired than me (me 2 and half hrs. lol )
sometimes your life style looks so korean.
i'm so surprised compared to early of this year." - e-mail from friend, Tae Hun

"When boys are young, like 8 or 9, they like their Moms best but when they get old, like 10, they prefer their Dads because Dads can play sports like basketball and soccer." - 10 year old boy

"Sorry, I don't read much. There are more efficient ways of getting information, like the Internet." - A coworker

"On Chuseok we were so tired from the drive to Grandma's that Dad and I slept all day while Mom cooked. The next day we woke up at 6:00 in the morning, ate our big meal, and I went back to bed because Dad let me have a drink of Soju." - 15 year old boy

From the mouths of teenage girls:

"My family left me home alone on the holiday because I have midterms in 3 weeks. It was boring and lonely and I secretly watched TV instead of studying."

"I would rather go on vacation with my family than friends because it would be more exciting."

"If I could go anywhere in the world I would go to Machu Picchu because the air looks good and it is mysterious."

"I want to visit Switzerland because chocolate is my favorite food."

"My boyfriend doesn't have good face but he is kind."

"My boyfriend won't hold my hand and we've been together for 2 weeks! We went to norebang 3 times already. When we were friends he acted normal but now he acts so weird.?"

"Dad is soft for tears. When my younger brother cries, Dad takes me aside and asks me to let him win at the computer game."

"I forgot to get a haircut so my teacher used scissors to cut it and then hit my legs with a ruler, in front of everybody."

Two Lists of Complaints, by Stuart Zehner

2007-09-27T11:48:00.000-07:00

Well, it's 3:55 AM. I can't sleep. In order to extend my VISA I need to buy a plane ticket to Hong Kong tomorrow. I was just listening to crickets and turning over my pillow for the millionth time when I decided to check my e-mail. I got a link to this Korea-themed list poem. Made me laugh. Thanks, Greg:

Timothy McSweeny's poetry site.

Two Lists of Complaints.
BY STUART ZEHNER
- - - -
1. Complaints My Middle-School Students in Korea Had About Our School's Food.

"The rice is cold."
"The kimchi is dry."

2. Complaints American Middle-School Students Would Have If They Were Served Korean Food.

"There's an entire fish in my soup."
"The fish in my soup still has eyes."
"The fish in my soup with eyes is full of fish eggs."
"What is this?"
"They made me eat off a metal tray with chopsticks."
"I was served a vertebra."
"This salad is clearly made from the bush in the front of the school."
"I told you last week I don't like fish eggs!"
"The menu says we're having chicken anus for lunch."
"The live baby octopus you served me stuck to my throat and died."
"This is dog meat."
"It's too spicy."
"The rice is cold."
"The kimchi is dry."

Magnetic City Hall

2007-09-26T07:38:00.000-07:00

3 Sites within walking distance:

City Hall is the heartbeat of Seoul, a magnet for Seoulites and tourists alike. It is a place to catch a colorful reenactment of the “changing of the guard,” enjoy a concert, stroll through the leafy grounds of a palace, or take in a musical.

The area, considered downtown Seoul, is home to government offices, financial institutions and business hotels like the Seoul Plaza Hotel, the Westin Chosun Hotel and the Lotte Hotel. Tourist information is available at the newly renovated Seoul Information Center, located on the 2nd floor of City Hall – or by calling the hotline: 82 2 731 6337 .

The neighboring area is beautiful with its juxtaposition of sky scrapers and historic landmarks, including the Seoul Anglican Cathedral dating from 1926. But what’s best about City Hall is there’s always something current to see or do.

The Seoul Plaza, an oval green space in front of the building, has become a popular spot for concerts, public celebrations and demonstrations. It was reestablished in 2004, and is now used to host cultural events like the “Hi Seoul Festival.” The hall’s clock and fountain are lit by floor lights, adding luster to the nightscape.

Entertainment, fine dining and a pressed pillow can be had easily. But what are the must-sees? Here are 3 main attractions within walking distance: Deoksung Palace, Chongdong Theater and the Seoul Museum of Art (SEMA.)

1.Merging the old and new is Deoksugung Palace, a stones throw away from soaring skyscrapers. It is one of the five grand palaces in Seoul: a beautiful, walled oasis in the center of the capital.Deoksugung, “palace of virtuous longevity,” is an example of the royal architecture of the Chosun Dynasty (1392 – 1910). It is also home to an art museum and a pond. Admittance is 1,000 W or less. Businesspeople use the picnic area to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

2. Beside Deoksugung is the Seoul Metropolitan Museum of Art, a personal favorite of mine. It showcases a revolving door of International exhibitions, as well as contemporary Korean art, earning itself a place among the world’s art museums.Modern, spacious and convenient, it strives to be seen. The general fee is minimal (under 1,000 won) but special exhibitions cost up to 10,000 won.

3. Chongdong Theater is located a few minutes up the street from SEMA. It was built in 1995 as a reproduction of Wongaksa: the first national theater in Korea, and was later designated a “tangible cultural asset” by Seoul City.

The artsy locale represents traditional performances, staging regular shows of all 4 categories of Korean performance: dance, pung-mul, musical instrument performance and so-ri, and also hosts traditional games to engage its audience, all the while fostering an appreciation for Korean culture. Tickets are very reasonably priced, from 20-30,000 won. Call now to reserve a seat. 82-2-751-1500

KOREAN ANGLICAN CHURCH-

Samgyupsal, Kimbap and Cocktails

2007-09-25T10:27:00.001-07:00

Tonight was "family time" in Korea, so the lonely Japanese and Canadian girl got together for dinner and drinks.

We ate galbi (beef) and pork belly, at a restaurant in Gangnam. 8USD ea. Tip: There are a lot of good restaurants, bars and clubs near exit 6, Gangnam station. We got "service" (free dwenjangjiggae and cups of cider, which is basically gingerale.)

WA BAR, Gangnam - Western style (meaning you don't have to order food with your drinks, and foreign imports and cocktails are available.)

PS - What's your favorite kind of kimbap?

I used to be a chamchi girl but lately, I prefer "cheesy" kimbap, at 2USD a pop. Buy one at any kimbap world near you. (Ingredients: kim - dried seaweed, rice, carrot, root, egg, raddish and processed cheese.)

Holiday Weekend Myeongdong

2007-09-24T08:22:00.000-07:00

Seoul's first GAP cut the grand ribbon Aug. 24th. A T-Shirt costs about 35$. The store is only 2 floors high, catering mostly to men, but that brand name fix is all yours. Plus you'll be the envy of the guy in the middle with his arms crossed.

This stylin' Korean dude could pass as a French man from behind. Don't you dig his earthy look?

It feels like there is a Starbucks on every corner in Myeongdong. My short coffee of the day (the cheapest thing on the menu) was approx. 3 USD. I paid for the view though, got to people watch from the 2nd story window.

Lotte Department store. (Chanel is out of my price range but my camera wanted to roam!) "Department stores" are the shopping malls of Korea. Most of them are high-end so youth usually prefer to shop at boutiques and markets.

Cute Korean girls, by request.

Visiting Deoksugung Palace in Seoul

2007-09-23T07:44:00.000-07:00

During the Joseon Dynasty, Deoksugung Palace was one of the "Five Grand Palaces" built in Seoul. It is located near City Hall subway exits 1& 2, a busy intersection in the heart of the city. Admission is only 1,000 W, and the grounds are beautiful.

The neighboring area includes the historic Cheongdong church, the Cheongdong Theater and SEMA. I photographed all of the sites and will post/write in depth soon.

Sushi at an affordable little restaurant to the left of the main gate (heading in the direction of SEMA.)

Chuseok in the eyes of Young Koreans

2007-09-19T03:55:00.000-07:00

"One of the major foods prepared and eaten during the Chuseok holiday is Songpyeon (송편), a crescent-shaped rice cake which is steamed upon pine needles." - Wikipedia.

What's going on in Seoul during the holidays? Click here! (shamleless promotion of the Seoul Government site.)

Yes, my bites always come out heart-shaped. Happy Chuseok (Thanksgiving) to us! The staff got 5 KG boxes of apples today. I felt crazy lugging home 10 pounds of fruit. What am I going to do with it all? I have no oven here, just a stove-top. I suppose I could make homemade apple sauce.

This was better than our New Years gift shocker: a crate of SPAM, considered a joke by some, but a luxury in Korea. I re-gifted it pretty quickly.

Hanbok for sale in a shop window, South Gate Suwon. Just to get the festivities going.

PS- Tae Hun's wedding photos from Saturday night. It was pretty Westernized- steak dinner, white wedding dress. There were huge screens on the wall, showing up-close video footage of the couple: Tae's best friend's sister and her fiancee. The guy was displeased his younger sibling was marrying before him. I told Tae Hun that Canadians aren't eager to rush into marriage. I'm allowed the odd generalization.

Without further ado, the Wedding photos:

Have you been to a Korean wedding? What did you think?

Plus, For Jack. HAHA!

Just out of curiosity, who are you?

2007-09-17T20:57:00.000-07:00

For Example:
Student in Seoul.
Suburban housewife, Iowa.
Jazz musician, Chicago.

Recent Keyword Searches:

everland foreigners
korean min family
traditional korean women hair
suwon
barber poles korea
traditional korean culture synonym
stranger in suwon
seoul hairdressers english
suwon sex red light
famous korean blood type
korean girls vs japanese girls
south korea culture
korean culture and women
what is there to do in seoul during chuseok
suwon korea pics
shame in korean culture after injury
suwon museum
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korean word for glutinous rice donuts

Visiting a Korean Heater-Factory, or something like that.

2007-09-16T09:46:00.000-07:00

PS - My George M. Cohen review is up.

(Above) Waiting outside my apartment in the drizzling rain. Hero had to drop his parents off in another city, an hour away. His Mother was a sweet woman. We ate kimbap in the backseat, and tried our best to communicate. When we arrived, his Dad insisted I tour their factory:

The finished products:

After being served grapes on one of the display beds, Hero and I said goodbye to his parents and set back to Suwon for dinner, a walk, norebang, and a dose of second hand smoke:

Move star? Singer? Member of the Korean Mafia? Oh, all of the above. O.K.

Arriving at South Gate, Suwon:

Hwaseong Fortress provides nice views of the cityscape.

Hero had an incredible voice (Korean and English ballads, pop songs to rap), but lately kareoke just gives me a headache.

... Goodnight.

Seoul in Photos & A Korean E-mail ...

2007-09-14T22:35:00.000-07:00

Can anyone decipher this e-mail from the guy who drove me back to Suwon? (See "hitchhiking" post.) After I go article-hunting in Seoul tomorrow, he's meeting me for dinner. Yikes. Think we'll be able to communicate?

To: "Eva Mckinnon" evakarrin@hotmail.com

Subject: [RE]RE: Hey

It meets from the suwon
It sees at the next afternoon 6:00
You house in the future it will go? When only does not if not, from?
The Seller phone is not having still?

Take your best shot! Translate his English for me.

Korean Lunch

2007-09-12T21:56:00.000-07:00

Did you know: Koreans eat rice and soup for breakfast?

Hungry? Pull up a seat and join us!

My beautiful and funny co-worker, Yumi, invited me out for lunch. I asked her for valuable teaching advice, because my Saturday morning adult class has expanded, and I have no idea what I'm doing!

Dwenjang jiggae, salty fish, kimchi sidedishes, teaching advice ...

A king's spread for man won (5USD each). Boy oh boy I'm going to miss Korean food. Think there's a Korean supermarket in Brockville Ontario? I know Montreal has places you can buy overpriced kimchi. It'll have to do.

PS (sorry to ruin your appetite) but I want to introduce you to my new friend! He eavesdropped on my conversation in a phone booth, last night, but I forgave him. He was leggy and charming:

2007-09-11T06:16:00.000-07:00

Walked into the classroom today and saw this (... could have been worse) Am I a chipmunk?

Myeong-dong: Where Fashion, Culture and Gourmet Meet

2007-09-09T20:29:00.000-07:00

food fashion nightlife sight seeing

Myeongdong, a fashion and financial district in Jung-gu Seoul, is a fun place to spend the day, treating yourself to a great lunch, a glass of red wine and bags filled with the latest designer clothes.
Whether you prefer the convenience of shopping malls and department stores, or enjoy window-shopping on pedestrian friendly streets, Myeongdong suits your shopping style– catering even to boutique and street market lovers. It is a mid-high priced district where you can seek out the trendiest fashions and accessories and, of course, grab a tall non-fat latte at Starbucks.
Throngs of twenty-somethings head to the heart of the city, for a day of wandering and shopping. The streets are lined with International stores, restaurants, bars and five-star hotels. It is indeed a hot spot, so if you want to avoid congestion, visit during the weekdays, or better yet during the Korean holidays.
Autumn in Korea is the most beautiful time of the year, and Myeongdong has shops to get you back to school or work looking like you stepped off a million dollar runway.
Seoul’s first GAP recently opened its doors in Myeongdong, offering brand names at prices lower than Polo or Bean Pole. A pair of pants will cost you between 60-80,000W. Shopping malls include Lotte Dept. Store, Migliore and Shinsegae Dept. Store, among others. Seoul Travel & Culture Magazine says you can't miss Avatar mall located one block away from the Chinese Embassy.
There is more than just shopping to enjoy in the area, home to the Gothic style Myeongdong Cathedral, with benches under foliage outside, Namsangol Hanok Village, the Postal Museum, Chinese Street, and traditional Korean restaurants like Jeonju Jungang Hoegwan, where you can dine on bipimbap for 9,000W. (Myeong-dong Stn. Line 4, Exit 6). There are many banks and, City Hall area, with its myriad of attractions, is within walking distance.
Keep an eye on the newspaper for the Myeongdong Festival, which will include a colorful parade, a beauty pageant, traditional wedding ceremony, folk play, street fashion shows and makeup shows. Officially the most expensive land in Seoul and Nationwide, Myeongdong is a must-see for anyone visiting the Nation’s capital. It’s an affluent place where fashion, culture and gourmet meet.

George M. Cohen Tonight - Review

2007-09-08T07:01:00.000-07:00

Korea does Broadway, my review

“George M. Cohen Tonight,” is currently being staged at Dongyang Art Hall, Sinsa-dong in South Seoul. The Korean adaptation of the famous Broadway musical is a monologue acted by 3 performers, on rotation.

Spanning approximately 1 ½ hours, with minimal props such as a piano, cane and moon, the musical is danced and sung with vigor and sensitivity. The true story of Broadway legend, George M. Cohen, is relatable to Koreans who understand a life devoted to ones work.

Cohen almost single-handedly invented the American musical comedy and wrote more than 50 shows and hundreds of songs before his death in 1942.

The actor becomes Cohen for 100 minutes on stage, impressing the audience with the physicality of the performance as well as the breadth of memorization. Each performer was forced to learn about 30 pieces.

The small, intimate venue puts you up close to the actor who tells George’s life story in flashback from childhood, focusing on the strains show-business caused his family, the highs and lows, the death of his best friend.

Each actor approaches the role in a fashion suited to their strengths, like IM who draws upon his experience as a tap dancer. From Broadway in the 20th century to Korea in the 21st, the themes prove Universal. “George M. Cohen Tonight,” is a fun way to brush up on your Korean! Call now to book a ticket.

The musical plays through Nov. 30 at Dongyang Arts Center (dyarthall.co.kr) near Exit 2 of Sinsa Station on Subway Line 3. Tickets are 40,000 won (interpark.com).

Gangnam Shopping, Seoul (Metro Exit 7)

2007-09-08T05:26:00.000-07:00

Hitchhiking in Korea. Or, meet my hero.

2007-09-05T20:09:00.000-07:00

Last Sunday I headed to a gallery I thought was just outside of Seoul. I took a bus, the subway, another bus, and the driver told me to get out- in the middle of nowhere. The sun was beginning to set and I knew the gallery would soon be closing. I was hours away from Suwon.
There are farms all around me. Where are the buildings? The crowds of people? The cars? Finally a jeep came to the stop sign where I was pacing, map in hand. I ran onto the road. "Stop, please stop!" I shouted at him. He rolled down the window.
Where is **** gallery, I asked in Korean. A 40 minute walk away. Wonderful. He told me to get into his car. He only looked about 20 yrs. old and I noticed a girl in the front seat. OK. Safe enough.

They drove me to the gallery and I arrived just as it was closing. I thanked them for their generosity, exasperated because there would be no time to tour and I had zero idea how to get back to Suwon.

So nice of you to go out of your way. Where were you headed, in the first place, I asked him. "Suwon, to meet my friends. But I have to drive my sister home first." SUWON?! When he found out that was my destination, he said he'd return to get me in 15 minutes, when I was through taking photographs. We'd go together.

We became instant friends on our long drive to Suwon, laughing about destiny. He said he wants to be re-payed with dinner and an English lesson.

Showing Stephanie South Gate Market, Suwon

2007-09-05T18:57:00.000-07:00

Stephanie and her tres-Korean meal of spaghetti and Coca-Cola at Hans Deli (less than $5)

Saturday Night Korean Style

2007-09-02T07:33:00.000-07:00

I've been at the hagwon for 10 months now and they FINALLY recruited another foreign girl! Look how happy I am to have Stephanie in the picture! She's from Manchester, she has big blue eyes and an adorable accent. I taught her some lessons last night.

Lesson 1: Stephanie, we do not drink our soju like "this."

Lesson 2: No night is complete without norebang. Choose God-awful English music (like Westlife) and you'll be well liked by your Korean company.

Lesson 3: With your drink, order a big cheese and corn platter or spicy seafood soup. Yes, this is a bar. We know you've just had dinner.

Lesson 4: Disco balls are not tacky. Please don't suggest it.

Lesson 5: You mustn't mingle with the other tables. Stay at your respective seat. Talk with the friends you came with.

Youngeun Museum - Pop & Con Mix Exhibit

2007-09-02T06:39:00.000-07:00

Let your imagination run wild. Bright red boots. Marilyn Monroe prints. Comic strip characters. A gigantic mobile and puzzle pieces, all like candy for the eye. The art may be laughable, but you’ll walk away deep in thought.

Check out “Pop & Con Mix,” running until Sept. 22nd. The exhibit is a colorful commentary on mass media, reflecting art and culture in a fresh way. Step into your television box and encounter the familiar in an unfamiliar context.

Pop culture icons are presented in a new light to expand one’s understanding of advertising and popular art. The museum in Kwangju city is currently displaying the work of 12 artists, in a range of mediums including sculpture, print work and painting.

Though accessible by subway and bus, the modern gallery is perched on a grassy field, surrounded by mountains. The two buildings consist of a gallery displaying contemporary art, and a resident-in studio. There, art lovers can watch the artist at work.

Admittance is 2,500 W for adults, 1,500 W for students/children, and a discounted price for groups. Opening hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 10AM – 6PM (entrance before one hour). Closed on Monday. The museum is located in Ssangryung-dong, Kwangju-city. Take bus No. 1113-1 from Gangbyeon subway station, or bus No. 1117-1 from Jamsil Station. Get off at Gwangju Chuk Hyup and walk 15 minutes. Call (031) 761-0137, or visit the website, www.youngeunmuseum.org for further details.

Korea's Summer Dessert & Hello

2007-08-30T07:25:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone!

I cannot believe September is on the horizon. I figured I'd give the icy red bean desert, Pat Bing Su, one last try. It was 2USD at the "Asian McDonalds" (Lotteria.) I have to admit, it was pretty good - that mixture of chewy rice cakes, fruit cocktail, red beans and sweet slush.

This is just a note to say I haven't written much because I can't talk about what's demanding my attention lately. It's a a professional secret.

Also, my e-mail is backed up like crazy. I know for a fact that I have unanswered Stranger in Suwon e-mails, or I've forgotten to post links to your blogs. Could you do me a favor and resend your inquiries if I didn't reply to you? It's not you, it's me, as they say.

Thanks,

Eva.

What's that? Party in Eva's classroom?

2007-08-29T06:19:00.000-07:00

The no fail pizza in America is pepperoni. But in Korea? It's potato (or sweet potato) pizza, often drizzled with mayo. Today was the last day of classes for the 3 month term. I asked my students how they wanted to celebrate. "Pizza please, teacher! Please!" Ok. "Assah!"

They drank Coca-Cola and I had Coco-Palm, which I highly recommend. It's white grape juice with chewy squares of grape in it:

"Teacher, gimme some of that CocoPalm." No, it's too yummy to share.

Talk of sharing, this girl stared at herself in the mirror throughout class. Then she asked if she could go to the bathroom, and after 15 minutes I found herself investigating new pimples in the mirror.

I did something I shouldn't have. She's a rebellious student, but she's experiencing major self conciousness. I had foundation in my purse that I never use, because it's an Asian brand and the color is all wrong for my skin.

Middle and highschool students in Korea aren't allowed to wear makeup. I suggested she see a dermatologist, remembering days in grade 9 I cried, before school, because I had a massive red planet on my cheek. I could empathize so I gave her the makeup, but I hope she isn't sent to the principal's office because of it. And I hope it doesn't turn into a bad habit.

You should have seen the look in her eyes, like I had handed her a pack of cigarettes. She quickly slid it into her backpack, grinning from ear to ear. Oh oh. Am I a bad teacher?

REVIEW: Leeum's Flash Cube Photography Exhibit

2007-08-28T06:55:00.000-07:00

A review I wrote for VISITSEOUL.NET:

Flash Cube is the current exhibition at Leeum Samsung Museum of Art, conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon: Western town. The exhibit includes works of over 20 photographers hailing from around the globe.

The repository of arts and culture is a uniting force of Korean and foreign art. Located on the hillside of Namsan mountain, Leeum was designed by world renowned architects, to accommodate the evolution of fine art. The gallery feels tucked away, like a lesser known jewel of Seoul city.

English docents are available Sat & Sun at 3PM, so you can get a better understanding of the exhibition suitable for theorists, photographers, and the public alike. The 90 minute weekend tour covers Leeum museums 1 & 2, which respectively showcase traditional and contemporary art.

Flash Cube engages in an open-ended exploration of space, environment and architectonic constellations. The International photos are displayed in ways that compliment the themes: Fluid Inner Space, Open Urban Space and Installative Space. A common string is photography’s power to create a perceived reality.

‘Fluid Inner Space’ focuses on interiors, showing works by Candida Hofer, Lee Yoon-jean, Mieke Van de Voort and Klaas Hoek, as well as Hiroshi Sugimoto and David Claerbout. Gerard Byrne’s series provides a window into what was once the photographic space of creation: the darkroom.

Photographers David Claerbout and Hiroshi Sugimoto evoke the experience of time by slowly emerging images, like those of a drive in movie theatre. In another series, called “U Become Snow,” large snowflakes fall from an upper vantage point, and you feel you are falling with them.

I was struck by German photographer, Andreas Gursky’s Paris, Montparnasse. It’s a facinating look into hundreds of windows in a multistory, unusually oblong building. At first glance, the structure appears to be lifeless, but upon closer inspection, the observer is privy to human activity, furniture, people doing laundry and going about their day.

The photo is full of character and wit, but is equally uncanny in its representation of space and nonidentity. Gursky plays with photography’s perspectivitst capacities, presenting what seems to be an alternate reality.

Visit the posh Leeum Samsung Museum of Art, a real treat for art and architecture enthusiasts!
The Flash Cube exhibition runs through Sept. 30 at the museum, located near Exit 1, Hangangjin Station, Subway Line No. 6. www. leeum.org for more details.

Korean Fusion Restaurant, Sadang Seoul

2007-08-25T10:45:00.000-07:00

I met my Japanese friend Hiroko at a restaurant near Sadang station Exit 4 called, Korean Fusion. We shared a Korean style pizza and drank "100 year old wine," bekseju. It was a happening dive with quirky decor like chalkboard walls and a projector. Hiroko's boyfriend Min joined us later, but it's an ideal locale to catch up with your girlfriends:

Easy Dukbokki Recipe

2007-08-22T06:23:00.000-07:00

ONION:

FISH CAKES:

RICE CAKES, WATER AND GOCHUJANG:

Ingredients

For main ingredients
1 Instant noodle pack.
300g Fresh rice cakes (about 30 pieces)
120g Fish cake (4 sheets)
1 Onion
4 Leaves of napa cabbage
1 stalk Green onion (optional)
8 Instant dumplings (optional)
1½ cups Water

For sauce (Mix well in a bowl)
4t Gochujang
4t Dark brown sugar
1t Minced garlic
1t Chili powder (Gochutgaru in Korean)

Preparation
1. If using pre packaged rice cakes, soak them in cold water for 20 minutes before you use them. 2. Thin slice the onion and diagonally slice the spring onion.
3. Rinse the fish cakes in hot water. (To clean the oil coating from its surface)
4. Cut the fish cakes and cabbage into medium size pieces.
Cooking (I cooked them on a portable burner, it is the restaurant style of eating) eating)
5. Pour the water into the pot. Start to boil it.
6. Add the sauce and stir it well.
7. Add all the other ingredients. (reduce the heat to medium to low)
8. Stir them well.

From the My Korean Kitchen Website.

Photos of Korea

2007-08-21T22:48:00.000-07:00

Japanese food & Walker-Hill Casino

2007-08-19T08:32:00.001-07:00

Saturday, my Japanese friend Hiroko and I went out for dinner with her coworkers in Itaewon, then to the elegant Paradise Walker-Hill Casino near Seoul Station. By law, Korean casinos are for foreigners only, so we saw a lot of tourists hitting the tables and slot machines. Drinks are free and the hotel is stunning.

Itaewon, also known as Western Town, is home to a variety of International cuisine including Mexican, Indian and Ethiopian. We had Japanese food, pictured below.

Photo time:

Amusement Park & Samgyetang

2007-08-17T06:11:00.000-07:00

Woncheon Amusement park is built on a resevoir in Suwon. Tae Hun and I went for a walk on the semi-abandonned grounds before enjoying Korean health food: samgyetang.

Samgyetang: gingseng chicken soup, is traditional Korean health food- often served at dog meat restaurants. A chicken stuffed with sweet rice sits in a broth of ginseng, garlic, and chestnuts. Ours came with kimchi sidedishes. A bowl costs about 10USD. This restaurant was located near Ajou University, but you can find quality samgyetang just about anywhere:

Bottles of ginseng on the window ledge:

Photos of a Buddhist Temple

2007-08-16T06:45:00.001-07:00

Sexuality and the Military Service

2007-08-16T05:25:00.000-07:00

As I was saying, the movie Joint Security Area sparked a conversation about the military service.

I've heard about the prison where incarcerated soldiers sit together, in a communal cell, straight-backed and mute. I know military trainees are sometimes forced to stay awake all night, as punishment, or allowed only one shower a month.

In the film, the men have "interesting" reading material (ie. American pornographic magazines). I was told by a nameless Korean that when soldiers finish their training, they're sometimes taken to "rooms" to celebrate. Rooms are clubs with private rooms where prostitutes entertain patrons.

As a Korean friend and I munched on Japanese food, I asked him about sexuality in the military. It's a taboo topic because Korean girls are not supposed to utter the 'S' word, and men generally aren't eager to divulge information about their time serving, because the memories are unpleasant.

Soldiers sleep in halls, with mats lined up on the floor, so there is little to no privacy. I asked my friend if the guys circulated magazines, as in the film, and he said the soldiers preferred pornographic films. He blushed, remembering a time he pretended to sleep, with one eye open in the black room.

Not only do the men sleep together, they shower together. Homophobia is well and alive in Korea, so I was curious to know if any gay tendencies surfaced, after 2 years together.

My friend has disturbing memories of a gay Sergeant who strolled up and down the sleeping quarters, kissing his soldier of choice on the cheek, and whispering into his ear. One time he masturbated publicly. He was eventually dispatched, to the relief of the soldiers, because rape had become a fear.

A Korean I know was taken to a "room" by a former sergeant, after completing his duty, and he described the following to me:

"For $1,000, three of us got a room to ourselves for 4 hours. The owner brought in the first group of girls. There weren't any attractive ones, so he called in another lineup. We each chose one. The club's slogan was, 100 girls are waiting for you, so we certainly had our pick.

The 4 hours in the room included a bottle of whisky, platters of food, and norebang (karaoke.) My former sergeant, who was paying, negotiated how far the girls would go. I was uncomfortable with the situation, but the other men took advantage.

After the girls left, we were brought bowls of rameyon (noodles) to eat. And then we were asked to leave."

Monet- From Instant to Eternity, My Review

2007-08-12T23:14:00.000-07:00

A review I wrote about the exhibit: MONET From Instant to Eternity

A quote by Cezanne: “Only an eye, but my God what an eye!” Seoul’s Museum of Art (SEMA) presents, “Monet. From Instant to Eternity,” showcasing important works by 19th century impressionist pioneer, Claude Monet.

The exhibition, running until September 26th, is drawing crowds of art enthusiasts as the first retrospective of Claude Monet in Seoul. It concentrates mainly on his water lily series and is comprehensive, divided into five thematic sections: Water Lilies, Portraits of Family, Garden of Giverny, The Seine and the Sea, and Lights of Europe.

Monet’s collection of oils somersault off muted yellow and green walls. The modern, spacious rooms and high ceilings of SEMA are ideal for showcasing the landscapes and portraits, gathered from private collections and over 20 museums, including France's Orsay and Marmottan Museums.

You don't need to know anything about art to enjoy the exhibit. Monet's brilliant compositions and mastery of light’s ephemeral nature demand an audience. His paintings are alive with light, color and movement. Every one conveys a feeling. His operation of painting is made visible through broken brush strokes and unblended colors. He practised his perceptions before nature, as applied to plein-air painting.

The exhibition offers a short film to bring you closer to the artist and his work. See his beloved flowers in the Garden Giverny, which was the inspiration for his success. Monet has said, “I perhaps owe having become a painter to flowers.” Family photographs provide glimpses into his persona and personal life.

I prefer his paintings that look like sketches. Whether it’s an oil of his wife on the beach or reflections bleeding shocking color, there’s something for everyone. The Iris, in the Garden of Giverny room, seduced me with its simple beauty: loose brush strokes, the white of the canvas, a touch of orange, all evoking spontaneity and effortlessness.

What an eye, indeed! Come see Monet’s works and their effect on modern art, before it’s too late: Monet: From Instant to Eternity 2007. 06. 06. ~ 2007. 09. 26. Seoul Museum of Art

Claude Monet Exhibit, Seoul Museum of Arts

Rebecca Horn Exhibit, Rodin Gallery Seoul

Luxury Norebang

Japanese Food, restaurant near Ajou University Suwon

Rabboggie:

Gangnam

Joint Security Area, Review

2007-08-08T21:58:00.000-07:00

Last night I watched "Joint Security Area," a 2000 release by the acclaimed director of Old Boy. The pacing and cinematography were great. It brought me closer to my Korean friend, because it acted as a window into military duty: the camaraderie between soldiers, the games played, the late night talks.

Later, over Japanese food, we discussed day to day life in the military service and he disclosed some disturbing incidents, which I'll talk about later.

The story, focusing on North South relations, unfolds in flashback as Korean-born Swiss-raised Sophie E. Jean investigates an incident on the DMZ zone- and also learns the truth about her father. Two North Korean soldiers left dead raise tensions, and there is a threat of full scale war.

The film is beautiful and lyrical, but it could have been thrilling, with some performance tweaking and a better interweaving of narrative threads (the Major's personal discovery was, to me, underdeveloped and distracting).

I haven't seen Old Boy yet but plan to, very soon!

Weekend trip to Gangwon Province

2007-08-02T02:04:00.000-07:00

Before we hit the road, Mother Tae Hun serves us a refreshment: melon slices and juice made with tomatoes picked from her garden that morning. Hello spoiled? No wonder he doesn't want to move out.

I'm hunched over with Tae's paternal Grandma who lives in their house. She talks and talks to me but I understand little. He translated one thing: "You are like another grandchild."

2 hours of driving later, a pit stop. Tae Hun's cousin's house in Gangwon Province. They sell corn in front of their house (4 ears for samcheon won - 3USD.) Corn in Korea tastes like European corn fed to cows, hard and tasteless. But it's well loved by Koreans.

At the villa. Tae Hun cuts up onions and oddang (fish dough) for dokbokkie. That was our dish to tackle, to eat as "desert" after the samgyeopsal: grilled pig stomach, served outside by his father.

A stream in front of the villa (below) where we stayed. Tae Hun's 80-something year old Grandmother owns it, along with part of a nearby mountain. She's a strong woman. We helped her pick corn, red peppers, mow the grass and clean, but she usually does it all by herself.

At a nearby Buddhist temple. People make wishes on slates. To the right was a tree so large 10 men can't span the width of it with their arms:

I'm surprised I didn't capture any ladybugs in this flower photo, because the land was swarming with them.

A sole fell off my sneaker so I had an excuse to wear my impractical princess slippers.

Tae's father cooks the pig belly. His Grandmother walks towards us on the porch. I am kneeling, waiting for everyone. Light rain cuts the humidity.

Roll up grilled pieces of pork with red pepper paste and kimchi. Delicious.

I say he's posing but he swears he didn't know I had my camera out. He's apparently turning over rocks in search of small fish.

The little cousin we babysat. Everytime we went somewhere she insisted on holding one of his hands, and one of mine. We swung her up into the air.

She never stopped talking, and her (apt) nickname at school is, "Little Fox." She and I went for a walk alone at one point. I stopped to put a flower behind her ear and one behind mine, but she threw them back into the grass. Why? Wearing a flower behind your ear in Korea means you're crazy.

This museum of a house is on the villa's property. It's Tae Hun's Mother's childhood home. Nobody had entered it for years, but I insisted so I could take photos. I bet Tae's Grandfather's ghost was there; he built it.

Shades of Suwon

2007-08-01T21:24:00.000-07:00

I've been tagged! 8 Fun Eva Facts:

2007-07-31T05:46:00.000-07:00

Recently, I was tagged by bloggers The Daily Kimchi and Lan-Anh. This is how it works:
- Each player must post these rules first.
- Each player starts with eight random facts about themselves.
- People who are tagged need to write about their eight things and post these rules.

At the end of your blog, you need to choose eight people to tag and list their names.
Don’t forget to leave them a comment telling them they’re tagged, and to read your blog.

The following bloggers should consider themselves tagged:

1. Paul - from Seoul Searching
2. Shawn and Mel - Suwon Expats
2. Jane - a Korean American lawyer in Seoul
3. Bobsama - ESL teacher
4. Kevin - an Expat in Suwon
5. Amy - another Expat in Suwon!!
6. Seasonal Nomad dude
7. Eric - from the Belarus blog

8. During my undergrad in Montreal I had a variety of roommates: Chinese, Korean, French and Indian. When I roomed with Chinese folk, I was so annoyed by the cultural/language barriers, kitchen thick with foreign smells, that I moved out. Yes I now eat the spiciest, smelliest foods Korea has to offer, and have all Korean friends!

7. Growing up my family owned an island on a lake, with a cottage on it and one of those gigantic trampolines. We sold it 6 years ago. I told my boyfriend I was sad he'd never set foot on the land. WELL, last summer we canoed to the island with plans to ask the current owners if we could explore.

We trespassed in the late afternoon. The door and windows were open. Were the owners out in their boat? After exploring, we cautiously entered the cottage and to my SHOCK the furniture and decor (going back to my Great Grandpa's time) were maintained, like it was a museum. Our food was in the cupboards, sailboat on the mantel, a poster in my old bedroom.

I phoned my Mother from inside the cottage, demanding to know WHY the owners would leave the door/windows open to the elements. The sun was setting and we were afraid to canoe the hour back to land under a black sky. Mom freaked, informed me that a police officer had purchased the property and we had better leave- immediately.

Josh and I were dead quiet as we canoed to land in moonlight. I got my wish! I was able to share it with him, just the way it was. Romantic huh?

6. When I was 10 years old, I got sick and had to be rushed to a children's hospital by helicopter. It had a glass bottom; the teddy bear the nurse gave me wasn't much comfort.

5. I was runner up for valedictorian at my high school because I was good at giving speeches. I also won the "best bum award." Yes, our Catholic high school had its sense of humor.

4. I've Googled the old Canadian TV show "Dear Aunt Agnus" 100's of times (for a VIDEO CLIP), and I've found nothing. Does anyone remember it!? I will love you if you do. It was so poorly written/produced it was good.

3. I have wavy/curly hair but straighten it.

2. I've been to The Bahamas, Holland, the East Coast, France, Venezuela, Florida, New York, and... drum roll... KOREA! I'll add Thailand (or India) to the list in December.

1. I brushed shoulders with the Leonard Cohen who gave a eulogy at Irving Layton's funeral. Yesterday bought a copy of Cormac McCarthy's The Road and can't WAIT to get back into it. It's amazing. He writes in a style similar to Trevor Ferguson: a Canadian author who was my favorite professor at Concordia.

Photos of Korea

2007-07-30T06:37:00.001-07:00

Conversations with Koreans

2007-07-30T03:56:00.001-07:00

The more people I meet abroad, the less interesting my life story seems. But don't worry, I'm inspired!

Last Saturday a new student entered in my adult class. He was fresh from mountain climbing in Nepal. He has worked for volunteer organizations in South Africa (Cape Town) and Scotland, making milk and cheese on farms to feed the disabled. He has been on business trips to London England, Paris France, he once meditated with Tibetan monks.

Life is what you make it. Anyway, I want to digress. Talk of traveling and life's opportunities lead to a discussion about the workforce in Korea.

One of my adult students has worked 15 years at Korea Electric Power Corporation. My friend Hwan, an engineer in the making, said it's one of those jobs that's impossible to get; a dream job with security, benefits, big money and high profile projects. He did the planning for KTX and Seoul's Inchon airport.

In Korea, it's important to secure a job at a major company. Men are always name dropping. "I work for Samsung." "Yeah well I work for ...." It's important to hold a job for an extended period of time because the hierarchy of respect in the Korean workforce pertains to length of job holding. Age, usually the meter of etiquette in Korea, doesn't play much of a role.

Having a variety of experiences is more important in the West than it is here. 3 jobs that showcase a diverse skill set isn't as good as 10 years with your necktie caught in Samsung's conveyor belt.

Food Etc.

2007-07-28T11:30:00.001-07:00

My new food obsession is 된장 , Doenjang Jiggae:

When you order doenjang jiggae, everyone in the restaurant knows. The soup leaves behind a foul odor as the waitress carries it to you. Korean friends thought I'd be put off by the smell but it is actually the most soul satisfying food I've ever had. It leaves me feeling good, full, happy.

The base is made of fermented soybean paste:doenjang (read more below) and ingredients like onions, tofu, clams, zucchini, etc.

"Doenjang is a traditional Korean fermented soybean paste. Beans are boiled and ground by rock into fine bits and formed into a block, which is called meju (메주). The blocks are then exposed to sunlight to be dried, during which mold special to soybean appears and the initial fermentation process begins. This sometimes produces an unpleasant fish-like smell. After the blocks have been dried, they are put in a warmer place to speed up the fermentation. Still later, they are put into large opaque pottery jars with brine and left to further fermentation, during which time various beneficial bacteria transform the mixture into a further vitamin-enriched substance, similar to the way milk ferments to become yogurt. Liquids and solids are separated after the fermentation process, and the liquid becomes Korean soy sauce (Joseon ganjang; 조선간장). The solid, which is doenjang, is very salty and quite thick, often containing (unlike most miso) some whole, uncrushed soybeans." - Continued at WIKIPEDIA.

A box of peaches for 20,000 W (20 USD) Fruit is a real treat in Korea. If I make it home for Christmas in Canada and find an orange in my stocking, I'll be grateful like it's wartime.

Kevin's drawing. Mrs and Mr. Chair are sad when their son falls over. The desk begins to cry because there's nothing she can do to help him up. Yes it's a sad story. Don't lose sleep over it. Dr. Elephant eventually comes to the rescue.

I'd be lying if I said I didn't have a favorite student. Enter Cindy. She's so beautiful, and does hilarious imitations that make me laugh. She's in ballet. She teaches me dance moves and whenever we go somewhere, she holds my hand like I'm her big sister.

I bought some new incognito sunglasses in Seoul this weekend. (To hide my tears about Damien Rice's cancellation.) Does the name Roberta de Camerino mean anything to you? Koreans are big on names. The sales woman kept repeating the designer's name trying to impress me but I had no idea who it was. With all the knock off brands in Korea, I'm skeptical anyway.

Have some candy from Korea's chain, Paris Baguette. Great for gifts:

Damien Rice cancels Pentaport Festival tour

2007-07-27T06:56:00.000-07:00

Cancelled appearance for festivals in Japan & Korea - 26 Jul 2007

"It is with due thought and consideration that we are sorry to announce our decision to cancel Damien's appearance at festivals in Japan (Fuji Rocks Festival) and Korea (Pentaport Festival) this coming weekend.This years busy touring and traveling has taken its toll on Damien's health and due to exhaustation we must cancel our scheduled appearances at these events in the longer term interest of protecting his voice.Having never cancelled an appearance to date, we are really disappointed not to be making the trip and send warm wishes for a beautiful festival."

In December I'm going to Thailand. I haven't done much traveling. I have only 4 months left in Korea and need to decide which parts to see. Tough decision! I hear Jeju Island is a must. My year long vacation is literally 2 DAYS (yes 2 days) because the 5 days in mid-August include a weekend and a National Holiday.

Does anyone have a recommendation?

Today I got this offer from a Korean friend. Sounds good to me. Day/weekend trips can be the most fun. Have you been to Gang-Won province?

"hey~ when is your vacation? my vacation is next week (8. 2 ~ 8. 5) i don;t decide what to do exactly but maybe i'll visit mom' mother in gang-won province i told you she has villa there. you and kyle can come with me. you wanna in? it takes 2hrs (or 2and half hrs) usually to get to there by bus. i don't know how many rooms left yet. the villa is 2 floor bld. there are 5 rooms (3 are one bed room, 2 are two bed room) except grand mom's room. and there are barbecue grill, plot for vegetable, little shed, stream (tiny one) around villa. there are water park, ski resort, river around that area. " - Tae Hun

A Pressing Question!

2007-07-27T05:55:00.000-07:00

Here is one of my coworkers teasing the kids, who are totally enamored- probably because the man himself is childlike. He's also a fantastic teacher.

He asks me ridiculous questions all the time because he has, "never known a foreign person." My eye color, skin color, hair, height, weight (I could go on) have all been scrutinized.

He's like a girl. If I wear a different color lipstick he wants to know why. I find myself inventing answers because there usually are none! My skin is pale. It just is. Yes you can examine it.

Today I said I don't like the crushed ice, whipped cream and red beans desert, with fruit from a can- although I'm sure it's better for me than a towering scoop of ice cream.

WELL he informed me, there's a Polish girl in Korea who enjoys red beans so much she eats a bean sandwich everyday- and she makes the crushed ice sundae a couple times a week. He said it really makes him happy she enjoys beans so much.

I asked how he knows her. Does she go to Ajou University? "I saw her on TV," he replied.

The girl and I are both foreigners. She's from Poland. I'm from Canada. It baffles him. Why does she like the desert when I do not?

A.B.C.'s of Korea

2007-07-25T06:23:00.000-07:00

A- ADVERTISING

B- BIPIMBAP 비빔밥

C- CROWDS. Also see, "claustrophobia."

S- SOJU?

This Hongdae area norebang (kareoke) bar is hilarious. The large glass windows allow exhibitionists to sing in front of an audience: people passing on the street. There are ladders in each room leading up to private bunks with pillows. I like it for 2 reasons. 1.) It looks like a doll house for big people. 2.) From the street it might appear that I have a decent voice!

The night shot of Suwon, above, looks like an American painter's work. Can you guess whose?

Korean Men: Forever haunted by their military training?

2007-07-24T07:51:00.001-07:00

Tae Hun admits that he had a better military experience than most of his friends, but he regrets "wasting" 2 years of his life and he still dreams about it, like he did the other night:

Hi eva. today i had weird dream. i had to join the army again even i finished already. i said to a private first class soldier, "hey man, i finished mine already. i think there must be something wrong with military system. he said, "i don't care whether you finished your obligation or not. i just follow HQ's order." i had to join the army again! and you see me off to the main gate of boot camp. it was really weird.

I asked what my reaction was in the dream. He said I wished him good luck.

ASK EVA (and she will ask someone else...)

2007-07-24T06:19:00.000-07:00

F.Y.I. I added a new foreigner in Suwon to the blogger list! http://meverden.blogspot.com/

1. Interested in finding the red light district in Suwon? I am- but not for the reason you might think! give me a little credit. I want to take some great PHOTOS! A fellow Suwonite (Suwonite?) sent me these directions:

"Ahhh, the red light district. Do you know where the Paris Baguette is just outside of the station? My sense of direction is terrible so I'll describe it like this. As you are facing the Paris Baguette walk to the left and follow the main road. There will be several sides streets you pass. It is a block or two before you reach an overpass. It's about 3-4 blocks, I think, from the Station. I've just been there twice. Once by mistake and I took my husband to see it. It was a Sunday when I went with him and they weren't quite open for business. There was lines of really seedy looking men waiting. Yuck! When I went on a weekday, it was the only street with no one on it. The windows are all curtained so you can't mistake where you are and the girls were sitting on chairs in the entryway. If you have trouble finding it, maybe I could meet you at the station and take you. I think I would avoid Sunday. I wonder what it's like at night? I'm sorry my description is so poor, it is easy to just walk it then tell somehow how to get there. I'm so mixed up on my directions but I think it is north of the station."

2. "Dear Eva,

*This relationship-based question has been deleted by request.

Good Girl Vs. Bad Girl Behavior in Korea

2007-07-23T06:10:00.000-07:00

A reader responds: "My school has 3 native teachers: myself from the US, and female teachers from China and Japan. We have been told that I can't walk around the school/eat a meal/or do something with only 1 of the female teachers; it has to be both female teachers at the same time. It looks "bad" to Koreans when a single male teacher and a single female teacher do something alone.

The male students, well some of them are terrorists in training, but IF they get punished it is very light. If the female students do the same thing, they receive more severe and longer lasting punishment, ie pulling weeds outside for 3 days, being forced to kneel for 8 hours, etc.. The punishment should be the same, but it's not."

- A foreign highschool teacher in Korea.

Remember when Kevin, another foreigner in Suwon, wrote of a Korean girl who refused to be seen in public with him for fear of being perceived as a "bad girl?" People stared and gave them dirty looks. One even pressed his nose up to the restaurant window where they ate.
I first got a glimpse into the good/bad girl phenomena when I was warned to dress appropriately. I upset a Korean friend's Grandmother when I failed to place a pillow over my bent knees, playing yut nori, on the floor in a skirt.
I was also sternly warned to never label a child a "bad boy" or "bad girl." That's obvious to me; comment on behavior, not character. You're acting bad, not you are bad.
But appearances are of utmost importance in Korea. On the bus ride back from the Folk Village, an adult student discussed the Korean focus on being exemplary. For women this means being beautiful and kind with a "good character." Smart? Talented? That's a plus.
I've heard that Korean women occasionally go through a procedure to repair their hymens and fake virginity on their wedding night. Purity is glorified, and it may be a root of the obsession with white skin. Whitening lotions are pushed at every cosmetics shop in Korea. I was even given samples of whitening toners, when I bought mascara-- and I'm as pale as they get.
Although Korea has a big drinking culture, women who drink more than a couple of beers are often judged. The average Korean guy is not impressed by a girl who can hold her liquor, let alone one who can't. I've mentioned women's bathroom stalls filled with smoke on sunny days. Smoking speaks of a woman's lack of discipline and generally poor character.
Some male University students told me they preferred, "a lady," someone feminine and easy to talk to. Tae Hun described a willowy Korean girl with hair done up in a bun. Even in a developed country where one night stands happen and there's a motel every 5 blocks, traditions prevail.
A male coworker disputed the whole tomboy thing by writing, "Eva is a lady," on the white board. He meant it as a major compliment. He later said he was repulsed by one of our coworkers, a broad-shouldered and opinionated woman with a husky voice. She can eat a lot, she can play poker and pocket ball. Her strong character would be admired in the West. In fact, I aspire to be more like her.

More Folk Village Pics...

2007-07-23T02:09:00.000-07:00

Beautiful, no? Visit Youngin's Traditional Folk Village, just outside of Suwon.

A wealthy man's wedding, table adorned with candles and candied fruit.

Don't the business men look about 5 here? I was proud of my students for being so gung-ho, the wind in their hair.

Traditional Korean Porridge

2007-07-22T06:47:00.001-07:00

Also known as "health food," get well food, and food Korean men don't consider a meal.

I recently ate at a restaurant called, "Korea Traditional Porridge Restaurant," a couple minutes East of Hotel Castle in Suwon. I ate alone until a Texan business man walked in, and proclaimed he had been dining here on a regular basis because he can't handle the kick of most Korean food. Korean porridge is mild, and comes in various flavors like seafood (which is more like a stew, shrimp was his choice) and my favorite: pumpkin.

Remember when I was served pumpkin soup at a Korean family's home in Seoul? Click here.

The direct translation for Chuk is "gruel", which sounds downright unappetizing, so Koreans use the more palatable word, "porridge." The porridge is made by steaming grain over low heat until it thickens into a thick liquid ready for the ingredients. Pumpkin soup is sweet, hot and home to chewy rice balls and the odd pumpkin seed. It's definite comfort food, even in the heat of summer.

Pumpkin Porridge (with sidedishes and juice): 6USD

DO YOU LIKE KOREAN PORRIDGE? LET ME KNOW!

A Saturday in Suwon

2007-07-20T08:27:00.000-07:00

TRADITIONAL FOLK VILLAGE:

These "breathable" clay pots store dwen-jang and kimchi:

fermented bean paste and cabbage.

The old heating system unique to Korea. Even today, the floor is the primary heat source -

by means of hot water pipes.

This man was selling traditional honey candies from his trunk.

A family fishing with nets.

This is why they call it a "living museum." A Chosun Dynasty pottery mill recreated.

My students enjoying cold Ginseng tea. Koreans drink cold tea in the summer, and hot in the winter. Mine is persimmon tea, it tasted a bit like apple cider with cinnamon. I fought tooth and nail with my student about paying for my own, but he insisted, "it's my pleasure."

We shared a big pot of mushroom, beef and seafood soup. My students asked me to explain the sayings, "it could be better," and, "it couldn't be better," in relation to the food. I was so hungry from walking around that I said, "it couldn't be better."

Enjoying the view with a student. He told me there that when he and his wife got married, they went horseback riding on Jeju Island. I told him about my frightening ride down a mountain in Venezuela.

To SOULMATE bar, near Ajou University:

I was good friends with this guy, Young, when I first arrived in Korea. He, Min and I hung out a lot, but he went away for work. Well surprise surprise, he got an engineering job at Samsung company in Suwon, and called me up to go for a drink. Since when do I have "old" friends in Korea? I've been here for awhile now.

Drink house food- A platter of fruit for 10USD. Beer and watermelon anyone? Help yourself.

Men and Women's Hair Dye in Korea

2007-07-20T06:02:00.000-07:00

He looks positively plastic.

Korean Ken doll? He pretended to be timid about removing his shirt so as not to get dye all over it, but started flexing for the camera when I tried to capture his hair. Barf. Somebody wants to be a model.

In exchange for Frontpage, Photoshop and some thoughtfully selected music files (Chet Baker, The Cranberries and Louis Armstrong- all of which brought me back to my teens), I dyed his hair black. He's in his late 20's, but starting to grey. Korean men generally bald/grey later in life, because they have more testosterone than Caucasian men.

I hate those gloves that come with the kit, so my fingernails are now stained a brown-black, so attractive an 8 year old student rejected candy from my hand. Had Eva teacher been gardening or eating handfuls of chocolate cake? He was having none of it.

The result was pretty:

Japanese folk are more liberal with the hair dye than Koreans. Fly a couple of hours on a plane and you'll even see green. Koreans choose natural shades, close to their own color. My friend said one grad student was called a 'Yankee' by his engineering professor when he showed up with a bright orange/yellow shade. He was ordered to change it immediately.

Middle and high school girls are usually forced by school policy to keep their hair natural, and cropped above their shoulders. I thought bobs were the trend, but students aren't wearing the style by choice.

So, the box of hair dye. It looked like a Korean knock-off of L'Oreal's Feria. Silver box, but with a Korean actor posing on the front. I've never seen Brad Pitt on a Honeysuckle kit, or Johnny Depp modeling Jet Black. American actresses yes but rarely actors. Tae Hun said it's common for movie stars to advertise cosmetics- even men's makeup, like foundation.

As a foreigner you'll likely have some trouble finding American brands of hair color, at affordable prices. Try the big markets. But if you have dark hair, it's safe to buy a Korean kit. It works just like any other you've tried so you don't need to read the instructions.

A Reader Responds: Safety in Korea

2007-07-18T05:28:00.000-07:00

My Korean American friend Calvin sent me this link: http://www.safetygearhq.com/ If you're at all concerned about your safety, buy a self defense device.

When this man offered me a free banana, he did it in a crude way and gave his card playing, chain smoking buddies one of "those" looks.

A reader's response to the 'Weirdest Encounters' post. She asked to remain nameless:

"I wrote to you a while back to tell you how much I love your blog. I recently saw it again, and I'm sorry to hear about your gross experiences with some Korean men. Unfortunately, many older men seem to think anything is okay. I've had some bad experiences too (one of the standouts being a masturbating taxi driver).

The worst happened just last week: while on my way to work, a guy punched me out of the blue, then threw a glass bottle at my face; if I hadn't ducked, my face would have been cut. Fortunately, I got out of it with a cut on my head. The crazy thing is, they say he probably won't get jail time, even though he's done this before. After the hearing, it's plain to me he's a woman hater who will do this again. And it's crazy that a Canadian English teacher just got six months for forging a college degree! A little unbalanced in terms of justice....

Anyway, I felt compelled to write after reading your stories...I'm so happy that you're not letting those experiences affect your time in Korea. But also, as I'm sure many people have already told you: be careful! And unfortunately Korean men, especially those with liquor in them, are not known for being demure and charming."

After the Rain. My Grocery Store.

2007-07-17T07:57:00.000-07:00

My 5 Weirdest Encounters in Korea

2007-07-16T07:18:00.000-07:00

"Hold me! Oh, it's terrible, Darling. What is that thing?"

5. Older Korean ladies stare in awe as I eat spicy food, waiting for my mouth to catch fire or my body to reject the red pepper.

4. Bakers target me because they think I'm anxious to bring home a pantry full of white bread and baked goods.

3. Men assume I'm Russian and can be purchased. I've had a couple show me their wallets. One not so funny incident: In broad daylight Suwon, an old Korean man smiled, approached me and reached out his hands to shake/hold mine. I thought it was a sweet gesture and laughed shyly, only to find him yanking my hands down to his crotch. I pulled away and rushed down the street without looking back.

2. Sunday night, I had a fellow follow me in Seoul, insisting, "I'm not crazy, not psycho. I just have a good feeling about us." I made up a lie about returning to Canada the next day. He said plans could be changed. Then as I was waiting in line, a stranger in his 50's strolled up to me, put his nose a few inches from my face, studied it, and walked away with no expression.

1. I had my window open one Sunday afternoon and looked out to find a woman in the next apartment (only a few feet from mine) with her chair facing out her window and into mine. She was sipping lemonade and watching me fold my laundry. When I caught her eye, she just casually sipped her juice.

Disclaimer: By no means is this a comment on Korean culture! I've had my share of unsettling encounters in Canadian cities, still lights a question mark or makes your stomach turn.

PS -
Proof that the apartment IS indeed a bachelor's pad (whatever that means.) Actually this table hockey, beer drinking shtick is uncharacteristic. Can anybody guess which one is my boyfriend? If you guess right I'll mail you some kimchi. Mmm... heat and travel should help the fermentation.

Gangnam Seoul

2007-07-15T08:59:00.000-07:00

Koreans eat cold soup, on the hottest summer days. The soup is refreshing and mild, unless we're talking namyeon: cold buckwheet noodles, with kochujang: red pepper paste. PHOTO: The white dish (upper right) is a soya bean based soup, thick and cold with noodles as seen in the cucumber variation.

The Coffee Bean is a gourmet chain in Korea, pricey at more than 5USD/drink. (Yes, I know it didn't originate in Korea, hence the link.)

Can you guess what this popular Fast Food restaurant is (above)?

Church, Food, a Musical and Nightlife in Korea (a.k.a. my weekend)

2007-07-13T06:48:00.000-07:00

There is a lot to say about this weekend, so... rambelling to come. Tomorrow maybe.
Part One: Sunday afternoon, BAPTIST Church in Seoul

Lunch with the church youth group. No, Nana, I haven't converted just yet.

My old Canadian roommate and his church friends.

Part Two: Saturday Night Musical

We saw Lunatic Show. Visit the website for ticket info.

It is Korean with no subtitles, but I enjoyed the song, dance and slapstick comedy.

We had Pastries at Paris Baguette before the musical.

One of the lead actors:

Part Three: Night out in Gangnam, Seoul

Tang Grill, Californian Rolls

2007-07-13T05:47:00.000-07:00

Tang Grill Japanese restaurant is located near the Gate of Ajou University, across from Lotteria. These Californian rolls filled with tuna, rice, fish eggs and mayonnaise rang up at 4,000 W or 4USD. They came with a complimentary cup of miso soup and cabbage salad. The waiter (thanks mud) was great. Fans pointed at my table provided relief from the humidity.
I was first introduced to this restaurant by friends who ordered the pork cutlet with cheese. Yum. For those of you outside Korea, pork cutlet is VERY popular here, available at many Korean and Japanese restaurants- even "traditional" Kimbap Heavens. It often comes with fries.

I think the waiter thought I was a food critic because he was especially attentive when I pulled out my camera and notepad. Little did he know I was writing a to-do list for the day!

There were 9 big rolls on the plate, and I couldn't finish the last two.

If you've had Californian rolls, what do you think? Too much sauce? Too sweet? Too messy? Too perfect?

Yummy in my tummy tummy tummy and it feels so good.

2007-07-12T05:16:00.000-07:00

You won't believe the price. 2.60$ USD for all of this...

As I waited for my lunch: Kongnamul-guk (bean sprout soup), at a soup restaurant near Ajou University, the waitress brought out side dishes:

Hot peppers. Dip them in the flavorful red sauce:

Radish kimchi (upper right), standard homemade kimchi (bottom right)

A touch of seafood: the pink. It isn't really kosher to nosh on the side dishes before the main dish arrives, but Koreans do it. I ate a pepper and some kimchi before the soup made an appearance:

It was quite good- a light peppery broth with bean sprouts, green onions and a poached egg. It wasn't spicy so I think a lot of foreigners would enjoy it.

Bachelor's Pad or Feminine?

2007-07-11T08:27:00.000-07:00

This is Josh's new apartment back home in Montreal. I told him it looks like a bachelor's pad but he argued it's feminine ("note the flowers.") The couch, bookshelf, dining room table and chairs are all black. There's a caveman's hand holding the bananas. What do you think?

PLEASE be generous and vote!

Korean Currency

2007-07-11T06:02:00.000-07:00

Koreans think sharing food bonds them.

My favorite thing to do on Tuesday and Thursdays is to take students for a walk to the store. We skip down the street, hand in hand, singing "You Are My Sunshine." I buy them a snack their Mother would frown upon. For cheon won these chips made one girl's mouth very happy:

Chart from Tour to Korea. Check out the link to learn

the average price of milk, a Big Mac or bus fare.

Cheon Won = approx. 1USD

$1USD ≒926.80 KRW

As you can see, I'm rolling in WONS:

2007-07-10T05:41:00.000-07:00

KOREA QUETIONS?

Answers coming right up! With a side of eggs and kimchi, that is!

Hi Eva,

I enjoyed your stories and the pictures. I am thinking about teaching in Suwon for one month. Last year I lived in Ilsan for one month and taught near there. I really enjoyed it there. Is Suwon a nice city? I read about the fortress and folk village. Are there any other museums? Any art museums? Is there a big beautiful park? I am older--mid 50's, but I had a lot of fun last year with the teachers who were in their 20's and 30's.

Thanks, Eileen

Hi Eileen!

Thanks for writing.
Suwon is a nice city. There is a mountain near Suwon Station, and quite a few parks- even one with a stage for Sunday night performers.

There are no art museums, although I have heard word of a "map" museum nearby. For all your cultural needs (ie. concerts, galleries) catch bus 7000 near Ajou University. Seoul's Sadang station is only 30 minutes away.

The good thing about Suwon is that there are less than a million residents. It is convenient, with cheap places to shop, green spaces, movie theatres, etc. It has a friendly feel.

Good luck!

Eva.

Dear Eva,

How long did it take sorting through those shoes to find your size. What is the average women's shoe size in Korea? It seems that a lot of things are sold on the street. Does anyone shop in a store or a mall? It seems outdoor stands are set up everywhere for food and shoes, etc. Is this just a summer thing or are the vendors selling outdoors in the winter too ?
Why do they think your a tomboy? I don't get that impression from you, but I don't think your a girlie girl. I am enjoying the pictures.

Take Care
Sandy

Hi Sandy!

I bought the sandals before I left to Everland with friends. It took me about 30 minutes but I rummaged through them like a madman, one eye on my watch. 90% of the shoes were cheaply made and uncomfortable. I found my "Cinderella" pair just before my friends rolled up in a car.

There are more department stores than malls, in Korea, like Homeplus (Asian version of Walmart), New Core (good for clothes) and high end places like Galleria, which sell imported brand names at a cost. Seoul has some great malls, I'm sure. I haven't been. Shopping depresses me!

Yes there are clothes/ shoes for sale everywhere- in the subway station, on the street corner. Cherries sold from the back of trucks, sticks of chicken, for a dollar, on the curb. You name it.

Vendors don't close shop in the winter. It gets cold but there is little snow.

I'm only a 'tomboy' in Korea because I eat a lot, I don't mind getting dirty (playing badminton or pocketball), I drink my beer from a bottle, I enjoy going to lunch/the movies alone, and don't want men to take care of me. Many Korean women in Suwon are very traditional. Seoul is another story.

Ciao!

Eva.

Hi Eva,

I have some job possibilities right now. I'm just not sure about the pay though. Reading your blog makes me feel like many things are affordable. I've also heard that Seoul is one of the most expensive places in the world to live. The only job I have currently offered in Seoul is offering 2.2 million. I have seen a couple listings for work in Suwon for more. Are you actually able to save money working there? Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom

Hi Tom!

I read that Seoul has the highest cost of living worldwide. Of course it depends what area you live in and how you choose to live. MyongDong will suck your pockets dry.

2.2 million is average. I save a little over half of what I earn- and opting to teach intensive classes, etc. will give your paycheck a boost.

Suwon is less of a zoo than Seoul- and inexpensive, but the hagwon pays for your living quarters anyway. There are cheap restaurants EVERYWHERE in Korea, and if you learn how to cook a few Korean dishes, groceries will be cheap. I doubt I'm saving much more money than I could in Seoul.

If I could do it over again, I'd live in the big city. There's loads to do in Seoul (film festivals, rock climbing), and more people to meet.

Cheers!

Eva.

Hi!

I found your site while I was trying to look up information on dating a Korean man. I'm not in Korea, I'm in the U.S. and I recently befriended/started dating a Korean man. I'm not too sure if we are just new wonderful friends or actually on our way to dating. I'm not too familiar with dating in general... so yeah. We've only gone out twice. Once was to a movie that I invited him to with a few of my friends and then he and I went out for a snack afterwards alone (this was actually the first time we met in person, we found each other online). He paid for the bill and we talked for a couple hours. The next day was Independence day so he asked if I wanted to go see the fireworks, so we went and watched the fireworks. We went by ourselves, he insisted in picking me up, which lead to a brief meeting of my parents and we were off. We sat pretty close and he fed me nachos and generally took care of me and paid for stuff. So, here is where I'm confused.... most of those signals is American male flirting but is it Korean male flirting? I am waaaaay more familiar with Japanese culture than Korean and I'm at a loss as to what to think. I do really really like him. He's staying here, not returning to Korea, We're both Christians and we seem to have hit it off right away as friends. It's like we've been friends for years not two days. I know this is a lot of info.... just any bits of advice would be helpful. I don't want to set myself up for heart break if I'm miss reading him thanks a lot!

twiterpated and confused

Ms. Confused,

How long has your Korean friend been in America?

My adult class (of 20-something Koreans) discussed dating today, and most of them said they don't display affection, ie. hand-holding, until the 3rd or 4th date. Also, men initiate romance- not women, so be patient.

It sounds to me as though he really likes you. By what means did you meet online? Through a Christian community?

All the best!

Eva.

2007-07-08T08:38:00.000-07:00

Dakgalbi again!! (whatever, it's delicious.)
Pictured- chicken/kimchi fried rice.

Result of the rainy season: A lush landscape.

Yongsan Station (Electronics Mall, Seoul)

Yongsan subway station

Rum and Coke at Tinpan:

- a Hongdae area bar famous for hip music and a mix of white men and Korean women.

There is dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. Sunday was a little quiet.

We didn't go to "UNCLE 31 Western Bar" or "Ho bar."

Koreans snacking on street food: Oddang (fish dough), dokbokkie, battered seafood, etc.

We licked salt off our wrists and did tequilla shots. 2.50USD ea. They led to the telling of some deep dark secrets.

Out the train (subway) window.

Min isn't a smoker, but he likes the way it looks. The pack cost him less than 2.50USD. Cigarettes are very cheap in Korea. Most men start smoking in the military.

Out the bus window from Suwon to Seoul

Masks inspired by a Korean comedian who wore the horse mask on TV. If you're hungry for attention while clubbing, that's one way to get it!

This is where I got the white sandals Natasha likes. When you're shopping for $5 shoes, you have to try on at least 20 pairs before you find ones that don't eat your feet.

2007-07-07T10:38:00.000-07:00

Min's family is visiting so he had to postpone until tomorrow. I'll be sure to take tons of photos of Seoul. Also, I received some intriguing questions via e-mail and will reply to them on the site. I took photos of my kimchi fried rice, and have many, many stories to share. Until then, enjoy these recycled photos of Seoul, in large format:

People on the Subway

2007-07-06T03:39:00.000-07:00

I had to share "drawing time" once more! I suggested Kei draw the Seoul metro with me. It turned out pretty cool. Recognize the pop culture icon? (No, people, not almighty ajuma.)

Korean Text Messages

2007-07-05T06:24:00.000-07:00

My Nana informed me that there is no point to this post. She said there is no context given to the text messages and therefore, who cares? I agree with her to an extent. Text messages are the most common means of communication for Korean youth, so for those who have never sent/received a msg., it gives a peak into the cell phone culture.

To: Eva

From: Koreans

"I just wanted that u were eating more tasty. HAHA"

(the guy who insisted on wrapping my samgyupsal rolls.)

"What do you like singer?"

(Who's your favorite singer)

"Thank you for your kindness last evening I want to know your name"

(At a restaurant, she was embarrassed

when her little boy walked over to show me

his pet snail in a jar.)

"Tonight I'm making chicken stew. All of a sudden I think about you. You must miss this in strange country, Korea. I'll make this for you someday."

(Chicken stew? Really?)

"Happy Sat Tomboy"

(See, told you I was a tomboy in Korea)

"I thing you might be angry Don't be angry."

(a total misunderstanding!)

"I wish... But couldn't. I was too beaten."

(she means beat- tired)

"It is easy to me. Don't get me wrong girl."

(Tae Hun on the doctor's order not to mix meds and alcohol)

"Okey Doke"

Seductive Seoul

2007-07-04T06:29:00.001-07:00

Drawings by Kei

2007-07-04T05:53:00.001-07:00

Note the sharks circling around Elephant Island. He isn't going anywhere.

Coca-Cola Flavored treat for 20 cents. Really? 1950's America comeback?

Emulating his own art.

Arthritis strikes the ant colony.

The elephant, pooped out today, like Kei who is in peak exam time

Mouse soup anyone?

And he went to Hawaii to relax...

Yawn.

2007-07-02T06:14:00.000-07:00

I'm at the school from approx. 10:30 AM - 9 PM because of intensives. It's not like sitting at an office desk, answering phones. That's a lot of teaching.

Overtime paired with the unceasing rain is making me a little tired and cranky. All I want to do is read in a stranded cottage somewhere, wrapped in a quilt.

Min invited me out in Seoul next Saturday night, so I'll let loose and take some scandalous club photos. I teach adults "free talking" from Mon-Sat now, and my list of topics is interesting. Should provide some good material for the blog. Happy Monday everybody! Stay tuned. And ya, ya that recipe's coming.

PS- Keyword searches that brought people to Stranger in Suwon today:

Korea DVD rooms, stranger in suwon, prostitution in suwon, handy sites for foreigners, suwon stranger, live in suwon korea, cgv korea movie, japanese guys call korean guys kimchi men, inside bipimbap, photos of seoul, dunkin donuts suwon, kimbap, meet girls in suwon, apartment rental suwon, why korean girls act weird sometimes, colbert south korean music video, pictures suwon, foreigners korea life, long distance relationship with korean, korean culture etiquette, restaurant suwon.

Double Dakgalbi

2007-07-01T00:19:00.000-07:00

I'm on my way to Seoul (late Sunday!!) but here are some photos, in the meantime:

After going out Saturday afternoon, Tae Hun and I found ourselves at the restaurant where we were first introduced. Skimming the menu he asked, have you ever had 닭갈비Dakgalbi (spicy stirfried chicken), and I said yes. Then it hit us. We had been there before.

Our nostalgic food was cooked on a metal plate, over charcoal, in the centre of the table. The waitor stirring our food was nice and jovial. If somebody has to hover over you as you eat, you may as well like them, right!?

The chicken (7USD ea.) was sizzling hot, tossed with white cabbage, onions and rice cakes (log form) . We ordered our DAKGALBI + cheese "hot" (although my taste buds argued it was medium-spicy). People always underestimate the white girl's tollerance for heat.

The cheese was a yummy addition, but I prefer it without. By the way, I tried cheese 김밥 (kimbap) today as an alternative to chamchi kimbap and it was good, processed cheese and all. It's 2USD at most Kimbap Heaven restaurants.

The men in my adult class gave me a warning. They said I should buy "expensive" kimbap because the cheap stuff includes low grade, dirty rice imported from China. They also told me to choose carefully the restaurants from which I get 자장면 (Jajangmyeon) because, "it is black for a reason." They have found hairs, flies and other delights in the dish. They totally ruined my 'Black Day' food for me. It's like those people who warn you that everything causes cancer. Don't chew gum with Aspartame! Don't leave open cans of food in your fridge for more than a day! Don't bake in the sun until you look like beef jerkey and have skin cancer. Ok- I agree with the last one.

Above: My dramatic love-hate relationship with Dunkin Donuts. Yes, you are warm and sweet, Dunkin Original, you give me a jolt during my 6 day workweek, but you burn a hole in my wallet. 2USD for a regular coffee? I'm addicted, you're cruel.

Any other foreigners have secret Dunkin Donuts addictions?

Please, have a plum

2007-06-29T06:37:00.000-07:00

Mmm, sweet and juicy. Fruit can cost an arm and a leg in Korea, but a lady sold these from the back of a truck for only 2,000 Won today. Maybe I'll bring them to share with my adult class in the morning.

The whole "Oppa" Thing

2007-06-29T05:27:00.000-07:00

Guys- Ever have a girl you loved say you were like a brother to her? Probably worse than being told she doesn't want to ruin your friendship.

This is not the case in Korea.
Girls call most boys, "older brother." In Korean, it sounds like, "oppa."
Older sisters are called, "luna."

I just got this comment on the blog: "Hmm you're cute but you look like my sister. which kinda cancels the attraction part out for me. hah." And isn't that the way it should be? As an only child, I'm no expert, but the whole "big brother" thing is a little creepy.

Many wives call their husbands oppa, as a term of endearment. Girlfriends call their boyfriends oppa, and the label seems to carry through to the couple's brother-sister dynamic.

I have been insulted so many times by Korean guys who try to carry my bags, tuck in my shirt, get me water and pay for my meal. As a budding independent, I used to think they were insinuating I wasn't capable of taking care of myself. I even had one guy roll up all of my 삼겹살 lettuce rolls, one by one.

But Korean ladies like to be taken care of. I was told by a student that if my friends weren't being paternal, or 'brotherly', I'd have reason to be insulted. So I guess I should just enjoy my oppas while I'm in Korea. Maybe they're the only brothers I'll ever have.

Korean Kids and the 'Mom' figure

2007-06-28T20:33:00.000-07:00

"What are you afraid of?"

"Getting a bad grade on a test."
"Poisonous insects."
"Snakes."
"My Mother."

This week, one student caused me a lot of stress. He ran around with scissors, he stood on the whiteboard and wiggled it. (For dramatic effect, the screws came out and it fell over, almost knocking out another student.) The class became unsafe. I heard the boy sees a therapist with his family, and has some form of ADD. He gets angry when I ask him a simple question; he whines or growls and scuffs his shoes against the floor.

I told my boss I couldn't take it. "Time out" didn't even work. I couldn't rationalize with him. The class became chaotic, and the other students fed off the energy.

My boss phoned his Mother and had a little chat. The next day, he was another person altogether. He came into class meek and lifeless. He forgot his book and sat silently, with a lowered head, not saying anything but, "yes teacher. No teacher." After class I told him I would be very sad if he left, but that he needed to show me respect. He wrapped his arms around me, with his head on my shoulder. He looked like he might cry. It was a sweet, unexpected moment.

But I don't want a fearful student who knows his Mother is eyeing him, at home, on the CGV camera. I just need to be able to manage him. I wonder what next class will hold. Any disciplinary advice, teachers?

Long Distance Relationships- How to "Make it Work"

2007-06-28T06:58:00.001-07:00

One reason I deleted Facebook is, it's nice to think your significant other vanishes for the period of separation. They don't go to friends' weddings in Toronto, take a creative writing class, go bowling on Saturdays or move into a new apartment. They are just poof, gone, nothing changes and things remain the same. When I talk to Josh on the phone, we are usually in a fit of laughter like old times. You'd think I had only been gone for the weekend.

And as Josh says, "a year isn't a long time once it's over." Of course I'm entirely hypocritical. This blog must be killer for him. I post piles of photos of me mountain climbing with Min, having dinner with Hwan, playing pool with Tae Hun. Why I don't have more female Korean friends is beyond me. I want them! I have the strongest desire to sit on a patio across from a girlfriend, talking and people watching.

When Josh went to Israel last summer I was like, for heavens sakes, why does his closest travel companion have to be a girl in a little white tank top. She had a shaved head and was hot. It was horrible. She had a boyfriend but it was little consolation.

Tae Hun calls me "tomboy" and (casually pushing my lip gloss out of view) I guess I am, compared to most Korean girls. But it's no excuse, really.

This post was inspired by a recent e-mail. Western girls moving to Korea write to ask what they should pack, ie. bed sheets? deodorant? tampons? But this girl asked how I was maintaining my relationship! She's leaving a boyfriend behind and wants to know what the chances are of making it work.

I told her existing problems will surface. Long distance is no fun fair. But if it's meant to last, you'll develop a deep appreciation for them, and the ways they contribute to your life. Enough sap.

TOP 5 WAYS to "do long distance"

5. Talk on the phone regularly, but not too often- once or twice a week just so you don't have to do one of those big, annoying catch-ups.

4. Create a joint project like a website that allows you to work on/ discuss something unrelated to your separate lives.

3. Make sure you have something to look forward to. J and I are going on vacation somewhere hot and sunny, in November, when my contract is over.

2. Do sweet things for each other. I made him a slide show set to one of his favorite songs. He commissioned paintings from my Mom.

1. Confide in each other in an honest way that makes you feel close.

Lastly, don't sweat the small stuff. Enjoy life where you are because life's too short short. Josh says he's strangely confident when people ask him if we can last the year, and I feel the same way. After all we've been through, I'm sure of it.

I deactivated Facebook

2007-06-27T08:55:00.001-07:00

because it is annoying.

Fashion Glasses for Man Won

2007-06-27T03:55:00.000-07:00

This post is for my family. Remember the 3 years in a row I wore "reading glasses"? My yearbook, health card, library card and Christmas photos all showed me in cat frames. I searched high and low for affordable glasses without prescription, and got so accustomed to wearing them that I freaked and wouldn't leave the house if I couldn't find them in the morning!

I prayed my eyesight would deteriorate at the ripe age of 16 so I could justify an expensive pair. I was convinced they made me look smart. Mom couldn't understand it, and now I don't blame her. "You have beautiful eyes! You look like you're wearing those plastic glasses with a fake nose stuck to them. Not attractive."

But fashion glasses are popular in Korea. I was ahead of the times! Look at the selection above, for 10 USD: various styles in a rainbow of colors. 6 years ago, I would have been in glasses heaven. (Sigh. I was so sophisticated.) I nearly tried a pair on for old times sake.

My favorite Restaurant- a little gritty.

2007-06-25T07:26:00.000-07:00

A few times a week I grab lunch at a Kimbap Nara restaurant near home. For 3,000 Won (3USD) I can get kimchi jiggae, a plate of rabboggie or bowl of ice noodles.

This said, there are few frills. The bathroom looks like this:

Most days I'm not at all concerned

about the lack of toilet paper or the general cleanliness...

The coffee is dispensed from a machine for 10 cents. Coffee machines are very popular in Korean restaurants. You know, even hot water and powder can taste like a latte if you're desperate.

View out the restaurant window, where I sat on a stool: a woman dressed in Hanbok, walking past construction on her way to a wedding.

A man and his little girl:

The Korean Man's Story

2007-06-25T05:48:00.000-07:00

I have two new men in my adult class. One is a Christian and the other an atheist but they are both traditionally Korean. I'm liberal and choose to discuss social problems. Topics like abortion, stay at home Dads, and (laughs) gay couple adoption can get a bit heated.

I'm a strong believer in equal rights. I think homosexuals are born gay, but my students are convinced it is learned behavior, inherently evil, and would be a negative influence on an adopted child. They insist the adoptee would acquire their fathers (or mothers) "perverse" behavior. I asked whether they thought it would be healthier for a child to grow up in an abusive home or a gay parent home, and they chose the abuse without blinking.

I guess a hot topic like that is absurd to bring up in a society steeped in Confucianist tradition, a society in which adopting a child, period, is frowned upon, and gays live lives of secrecy. For the most part, the middle aged demographic grew up under a wooden stick of discipline, in post war time.

The man I dined with last night grew up on a rice and sweet potato farm. His father refused to be a farmer and not only fled his family farm, but left his son in the valley, in the care of his elderly grandparents.

The boy was beaten times he showed weakness, and when he queried about his family (did he have a father and mother? Were they dead?) he was sternly informed the topic was off limits, he wasn't to ask about them.

On his 7th birthday, his Father and Mother showed up unexpectedly. He was overwhelmed with joy, having been reunited with a mother, father and younger brother he didn't know he had. He just thought he was different, growing up. He had no mother and father and there was no explanation.

Oooh Fancy Fancy Fancy!

2007-06-24T06:20:00.001-07:00

I was treated like a princess tonight!

On the excruciatingly long plane ride from Canada to Korea, I sat beside a Korean man who lived in Calgary for 9 months. He is in pharmaceuticals with aspirations to be a politician;

he's so driven and successful that he's a bit intimidating,

but he's also playful in his own way.

There was some e-mail miscommunication but we finally got into contact and met tonight for the first time since we choked down plane food and watched 'The Notebook', high above the sea. His childhood story is facinating. He met his parents and younger brother for the first time at age 7. I'll tell you the story, in depth, sometime.

Anyway, here are some photos from our night. He picked me up in his car and gave me a traditional pouch that brings good luck. A luxury seafood restaurant awaited us, and afterwards we watched dancers in the park near the Suwon Arts Center: